[CAUT] teflon bushings

[A440A at aol.com]

Jon writes: 
<< Treat the yoke with thin CA to stabilize it against moisture.

Remove the bushings and insert a drill bit shank that fits snugly into
the holes. This hopefully will maintain the alignment while the CA sets.
Had nothing been placed in the holes they would need to be drilled to
accept the bushing and risk misalignment.
I've heard that once the yokes are treated with epoxy or CA
most if not all of the problems disappear. >>

     In 1982, I reshanked a D with the large teflon shanks.  I had had it 
with the factory pinning by then, so I took all of them apart and dipped the 
bosses, past the holes, into Brookstone's "penetrating expoxy", which was a very 
thin mix.  I just shook them off and laid them out.  I then let'em  set up for 
a day and installed new Teflon bushings. Repinned them to swing 6 times, and 
for the next 6 years, I don't think I had a single problem with that piano's 
pinning.  They maintained their friction through all the seasons, and were more 
stable than any set that I can think of. They worked perfectly, (or as nearly 
perfect as any thing I can get), and never needed maintenance. The Teflon was 
really a great idea, they just didn't consider the wood's dimensional 
instability. 
     A factory field technician, who shall remain nameless, happened to be in 
town and saw the action here in the shop.  He was impressed with how 
consistent the pinning was but said, "This is really good, but it will never be done 
in the factory."  I asked him why not and he pointed to the shanks and said, " 
It changes the color of the wood around the holes."  There is a clear example 
of priorities!
   CA might do the same thing, but will it really change the holes diameter 
so much that the ribbing on the teflon won't accomodate?  
Regards,  


Ed Foote RPT 
http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html
www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
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