[CAUT] S&S Key Bushings

Ed Sutton ed440 at mindspring.com
Thu Oct 30 17:50:09 MST 2008


For applying Prolube to key bushings I use a round Japanese Sumi-e brush in 
a bamboo handle. This kind of brush holds a lot of liquid and comes to a 
sharp point, so that one dip in the lubricant will lube about 5 keybushings 
very quickly.
A knowledgeable art supply store can help you find the brush.
Ed S.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fred Sturm" <fssturm at unm.edu>
To: "Ed Sutton" <ed440 at mindspring.com>; "College and University Technicians" 
<caut at ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings


> Partly it's logistics: I find it quicker to apply powdered teflon if  the 
> keys are off (or the felt is laid out ready to be glued in). I  can't say 
> I have a reason to prefer the performance of one over the  other. If I'm 
> not going to take the time to remove keys from the  frame, I'll apply 
> Protek CLP or Prolube. But I almost always remove  the keys for one reason 
> or another (usually wanting to make sure the  bushings are well fitted and 
> ironed).
> The quickness comparison is maybe a little marginal when the bushings  are 
> already glued in. But a loaded pipe-cleaner does apply material to  both 
> sides at once. It seems a bit easier and faster. Maybe the  material used 
> is less expensive, though I can't say I've checked. I  guess I also like 
> to be able to see that, yes indeed, I have already  lubed this piano's 
> bushings. And I figure the material stays on the  surface where it is 
> needed, rather than penetrating to where it is  wasted. I don't really 
> know how much of Protek or Prolube is actual  lubricant and how much is 
> vehicle, and what exactly it does in terms  of bonding and staying where 
> it is needed.
> All told, just personal preference, which could easily change over  time 
> if a reason emerges to do it differently.
> Regards,
> Fred Sturm
> University of New Mexico
> fssturm at unm.edu
>
>
>
> On Oct 30, 2008, at 6:05 PM, Ed Sutton wrote:
>
>> Fred-
>>
>> I'm curiou why you prefer Teflon on the cloth over ProLube on the  cloth.
>>
>> Ed S.
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Sturm" <fssturm at unm.edu>
>> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org>
>> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 8:01 PM
>> Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings
>>
>>
>>> On Oct 30, 2008, at 1:23 PM, Jim Busby wrote:
>>>> Thanks Fred,
>>>>
>>>> I forgot about the Teflon in the bushings. Do you do that very last?
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>> When I put in new bushings, I apply the teflon before I glue in  the 
>>> felt. WIth a brand new piano, I put teflon in with a  pipecleaner, then 
>>> follow with heat. Reason? The pipecleaner  "fuzzes up" the felt so it 
>>> needs to be ironed down again. With the  new piano, the bushing has 
>>> never been ironed and probably needs  some sizing, as well as lubing 
>>> and ironing, so this is just a  standard, assembly line process. The 
>>> way I use the heated cauls, I  don't find any affect on the teflon 
>>> powder.
>>> At this point, I haven't done any steam sizing of bushings that 
>>> weren't already tefloned for quite a while. But I think I would  steam, 
>>> then do a first, quick ironing, then apply teflon, then a  final 
>>> ironing.
>>> Chris says with the VS you don't need the additional lube. I guess 
>>> I'll see, but my take is that what is described as being in the VS  (1% 
>>> silicone) is probably a lot less lubrication than a fairly  think 
>>> application of teflon powder on the felt, and a coating of  McLube on 
>>> the pin. (Why McLube on the pin? In my experience it  sticks on metal 
>>> much better than ProLube, and it seems to be the  slipperiest substance 
>>> I have come across. Granted it's killing  brain cells, or the solvent 
>>> part of it is. But who needs those?  <G>).
>>> Regards,
>>> Fred Sturm
>>> University of New Mexico
>>> fssturm at unm.edu
>>>
> 



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