For applying Prolube to key bushings I use a round Japanese Sumi-e brush in a bamboo handle. This kind of brush holds a lot of liquid and comes to a sharp point, so that one dip in the lubricant will lube about 5 keybushings very quickly. A knowledgeable art supply store can help you find the brush. Ed S. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Sturm" <fssturm at unm.edu> To: "Ed Sutton" <ed440 at mindspring.com>; "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 8:27 PM Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings > Partly it's logistics: I find it quicker to apply powdered teflon if the > keys are off (or the felt is laid out ready to be glued in). I can't say > I have a reason to prefer the performance of one over the other. If I'm > not going to take the time to remove keys from the frame, I'll apply > Protek CLP or Prolube. But I almost always remove the keys for one reason > or another (usually wanting to make sure the bushings are well fitted and > ironed). > The quickness comparison is maybe a little marginal when the bushings are > already glued in. But a loaded pipe-cleaner does apply material to both > sides at once. It seems a bit easier and faster. Maybe the material used > is less expensive, though I can't say I've checked. I guess I also like > to be able to see that, yes indeed, I have already lubed this piano's > bushings. And I figure the material stays on the surface where it is > needed, rather than penetrating to where it is wasted. I don't really > know how much of Protek or Prolube is actual lubricant and how much is > vehicle, and what exactly it does in terms of bonding and staying where > it is needed. > All told, just personal preference, which could easily change over time > if a reason emerges to do it differently. > Regards, > Fred Sturm > University of New Mexico > fssturm at unm.edu > > > > On Oct 30, 2008, at 6:05 PM, Ed Sutton wrote: > >> Fred- >> >> I'm curiou why you prefer Teflon on the cloth over ProLube on the cloth. >> >> Ed S. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Sturm" <fssturm at unm.edu> >> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> >> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 8:01 PM >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings >> >> >>> On Oct 30, 2008, at 1:23 PM, Jim Busby wrote: >>>> Thanks Fred, >>>> >>>> I forgot about the Teflon in the bushings. Do you do that very last? >>>> >>>> Jim >>> When I put in new bushings, I apply the teflon before I glue in the >>> felt. WIth a brand new piano, I put teflon in with a pipecleaner, then >>> follow with heat. Reason? The pipecleaner "fuzzes up" the felt so it >>> needs to be ironed down again. With the new piano, the bushing has >>> never been ironed and probably needs some sizing, as well as lubing >>> and ironing, so this is just a standard, assembly line process. The >>> way I use the heated cauls, I don't find any affect on the teflon >>> powder. >>> At this point, I haven't done any steam sizing of bushings that >>> weren't already tefloned for quite a while. But I think I would steam, >>> then do a first, quick ironing, then apply teflon, then a final >>> ironing. >>> Chris says with the VS you don't need the additional lube. I guess >>> I'll see, but my take is that what is described as being in the VS (1% >>> silicone) is probably a lot less lubrication than a fairly think >>> application of teflon powder on the felt, and a coating of McLube on >>> the pin. (Why McLube on the pin? In my experience it sticks on metal >>> much better than ProLube, and it seems to be the slipperiest substance >>> I have come across. Granted it's killing brain cells, or the solvent >>> part of it is. But who needs those? <G>). >>> Regards, >>> Fred Sturm >>> University of New Mexico >>> fssturm at unm.edu >>> >
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