[CAUT] S&S Key Bushings

[Ed Sutton]

$850 bucks to replace wip cushions?
ES
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Paul T Williams 
  To: College and University Technicians 
  Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 5:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings



  Yes, I do, after all is dry....really dry!  It really helps a great deal.  I'm still new at this VS Profelt, but it seems to be working quite well.  If you have really dented in wip cushions, though, I think it's too much to remedy.  I'll try anything once rather than another $850 bucks!! These were 80 years old however... on to another set of wips!!! :>) 

  Paul 



        Jim Busby <jim_busby at byu.edu> 
        Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org 
        10/30/2008 02:35 PM Please respond to
              College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> 


       To College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>  
              cc  
              Subject Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings 

              

       



  Thanks Fred,

  I forgot about the Teflon in the bushings. Do you do that very last?

  Jim

  -----Original Message-----
  From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Fred Sturm
  Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 12:31 PM
  To: College and University Technicians
  Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings

  On Oct 30, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Chris Solliday wrote:

  > I would not recommend using heat in general with sizing solutions
  > although
  > some glues can take it and the heat may provide a quicker process
  > overall.


  Hi Chris,
         Thanks for the info about VS Profelt and its ingredients. I have
  ordered some, and will see how it compares with my own "standard
  method" - which does use heat. I agree that use of heat may cause
  problems if you aren't careful, but as long as you are paying
  attention it can be done safely  (a little experimentation with one or
  two keys will reveal potential problems).
         I posted about my method a few years back, but maybe I should do a
  quick repeat. Briefly, keys off the frame, in Spurlock clamps. Apply
  steam as if removing bushings, but only enough to expand the felt
  (keep the travel steam iron moving, keep your eye on the condition of
  the bushings). Follow immediately with heated caul (temperature
  controlled). A very quick (half second or less) plunge into each
  mortise to press the felt flat, followed by going back through the set
  a little slower (up to one second). This both dries and irons/fits the
  felt, and, in my usually dry climate, I can essentially put the keys
  right back on the frame the same day (after doing other tasks like
  brushing and lubing knuckles, scuffing hammer tails, etc). I have
  found that one second of a caul in a mortise doesn't cause problems of
  glue wicking into felt and the like.
         Whatever we do to re-fluff the felt, I think lubrication is really
  the key to longevity. All my keypins get McLube, all bushings get
  powdered teflon. The difference in longevity is very obvious over a
  period of years. Thanks to Newton Hunt for pushing that point
  repeatedly. Polished, un-nicked, lubricated pins + well-fit,
  lubricated, ironed bushings = nice feeling keyboard for a long time,
  even with heavy wear. [Attention to fine detail = better results in
  general.]

  Regards,
  Fred Sturm
  University of New Mexico
  fssturm at unm.edu




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