[CAUT] existing pinblock prep

[David Ilvedson]

I'd buy that tool...I'll also try to make one.   Thanks Jon...



David Ilvedson, RPT

Pacifica, CA 94044







Original message

From: "Jon Page" 

To: caut at ptg.org

Received: 7/26/2008 11:05:51 AM

Subject: [CAUT] existing pinblock prep





I don't get what you are saying about the Becket Tool, though. I 

suppose you have described its use some time or other, but I sure 

don't remember. Is it a gauge to measure where to cut the wire? In 

which case, I am guessing you are saying to line up the ink line to 

the existing pin in the block, probably centered. But the various cuts 

and shapes of the wood have me puzzling what they are all for.



The Becket Tool is a gage for cutting the wire to length. In the photo,

the wire is placed over the center hump. The wire under tension secures

it to the tool. The tool is drawn back along the wire until the end is at the

tuning pin hole. I make the hitch loop and leave the wires long for trimming.





Due to the slack and stretch of longer wire lengths, in order to maintain

a consistent becket placement in different sections, the gage is indexed

at the center of the hole for the treble and at the rear of the hole for the

bass; incrementally for the mid sections.





The large notch at the left (rear) is for pin height which can be checked

with the tool vertical or horizontal using the left or back edge. This photo

is prior to the ink line for an installed pin. In the previous photo the notch

opposite the ink line is for the same purpose of indexing from an installed pin.





With this gage even an occasional stringer can get regimented beckets

like a seasoned pro who strings all day, every day.





Chipping is simplified too. Knowing the beckets are uniform, chip with

a wire lifter in one hand and a tuning hammer in the other. Place all beckets

to the !:00 position. Squeeze beckets, tap coils, space strings. Pull all

beckets to 2:00.  I also use parallel pliers to squeeze the becket and then

rotate them around the coil to coax the coil tighter. Chip by ear or ETD

and pull sharp. Address the natural curve in the wire at the hitch pins,

bridge pins. Pull sharp again. Lift wire at v-bars, tap counter-bearing curve.

I usually tune to 442 or 4 and regulate/mate hammers, installing the dampers

as one of the last steps.



Regards,



Jon Page
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