[CAUT] existing pinblock prep

Jon Page jonpage at comcast.net
Sat Jul 26 12:05:51 MDT 2008


>I don't get what you are saying about the Becket Tool, though. I 
>suppose you have described its use some time or other, but I sure 
>don't remember. Is it a gauge to measure where to cut the wire? In 
>which case, I am guessing you are saying to line up the ink line to 
>the existing pin in the block, probably centered. But the various cuts 
>and shapes of the wood have me puzzling what they are all for.

The Becket Tool is a gage for cutting the wire to length. In the photo,
the wire is placed over the center hump. The wire under tension secures
it to the tool. The tool is drawn back along the wire until the end is at the
tuning pin hole. I make the hitch loop and leave the wires long for trimming.

Due to the slack and stretch of longer wire lengths, in order to maintain
a consistent becket placement in different sections, the gage is indexed
at the center of the hole for the treble and at the rear of the hole for the
bass; incrementally for the mid sections.

The large notch at the left (rear) is for pin height which can be checked
with the tool vertical or horizontal using the left or back edge. This photo
is prior to the ink line for an installed pin. In the previous photo the notch
opposite the ink line is for the same purpose of indexing from an 
installed pin.

With this gage even an occasional stringer can get regimented beckets
like a seasoned pro who strings all day, every day.

Chipping is simplified too. Knowing the beckets are uniform, chip with
a wire lifter in one hand and a tuning hammer in the other. Place all beckets
to the !:00 position. Squeeze beckets, tap coils, space strings. Pull all
beckets to 2:00.  I also use parallel pliers to squeeze the becket and then
rotate them around the coil to coax the coil tighter. Chip by ear or ETD
and pull sharp. Address the natural curve in the wire at the hitch pins,
bridge pins. Pull sharp again. Lift wire at v-bars, tap counter-bearing curve.
I usually tune to 442 or 4 and regulate/mate hammers, installing the dampers
as one of the last steps.

Regards,

Jon Page
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