Paul, I’ve never restrung a whole piano more than once using this method but just finished restringing the top 2 capo sections on one of our Steinway Ds in our main recital hall for the 3rd time since the piano was new 9 years ago. That makes 4 stringings on those pins counting the original one. The pins are still plenty tight and they still look good. There are numerous practice room pianos here that have received this treatment multiple times as well. The method I independently arrived at is virtually identical to Fred’s though I will add that in addition to getting all the becket holes aligned advantageously, I make sure the pins are all at the same height before putting the new coils on. A lot of them get high or low because of the various string splicing operations done before restringing. While the strings are off I clean everything thoroughly, lightly resurface the capo bar, super-glue the bridge pins (without removing them) with Zap a Gap to fill any hairline cracks and loose pin holes, string, pull to pitch, level the strings, resurface the hammers, space and refit the hammers to the strings. I’ve done this to 2 pianos this week and each job took 6 hours. Most of the pesky extraneous string-noise goes away and the pitch stabilizes very quickly if you make sure everything is seated and pounded in. It’s a great way to get the concert pianos prepped and sounding great for a new season, plus you don’t need to worry about string breakage for a while. I really think the new strings sound better as well… Eric Eric Wolfley, RPT Director of Piano Services College-Conservatory of Music University of Cincinnati From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Paul T Williams Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 8:49 PM To: College and University Technicians Subject: Re: [CAUT] existing pinblock prep Fred, Can you do this two times? Just trying to save a buck on practice rooms.... It makes a lot of sense to do this one time, but have you experimented twice with the same pins given good torque? Now with the old pins, are you concerned at all with the appearance of the new job? Restringing looks nice, but if the older pins are dingy or even rusty looking, do you proceed with this? I've not been here long enough to see, so I'm interested in what you've seen in your years. Of course, practice rooms are not the best looking of beasts, but it still is important to keep them looking somewhat decent. What say you? Paul David Brown <dcbrown5 at exchange.asu.edu> Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org 07/24/2008 07:38 PM Please respond to College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> To <caut at ptg.org> cc Subject [CAUT] existing pinblock prep Fred and all- Thanks for clarifying that for me. This was originally posted and replied to by self admitted low volume restorers who , in my thinking , would not be as quick as one might be after having done several without removing the pins. Your tips for that are a great help. Regards- David On Jul 24, 2008, at 3:33 PM, Rick Florence wrote: > Obviously, there is a time to keep the existing pins, which explains > David's qualifying statement "This doesn't address stringing on the > original pins." Yes, noted, and the post was a good one on the subject of evening out torque. But the full statement was: "This doesn’t address stringing on the original pins. That is an option if you are comfortable with the extra effort and time." In my experience, there really isn't extra effort and time involved. Granted, you need to learn and hone new procedures, but with several under my belt, I find that I probably save time, and perhaps effort as well. It is a little more time consuming to get strings off and on, but I have saved the time and effort removing pins. And the cost of the pins. And any work on the holes. And I have saved time replacing a block down the road (even if it happens after I retire <G>). I should say I have developed a few procedures that speed things up. I use a sharpened needle nose to remove coils (it gets between the pin and the becket bend, and grabs the becket, pulls it out of the hole, and pulls the wire off the pin). And I always go through all the pins once the strings are off and standardize the angle of the becket holes so they are all the same, so I don't have to go hunting. Little things like that, and it goes quite smoothly. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico fssturm at unm.edu David C. Brown Arizona State University School of Music Piano Technician 1-480-965-6760 david.c.brown.2 at asu.edu -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20080724/133cc318/attachment-0001.html
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