[CAUT] a simple question

Paul T Williams pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu
Thu Jul 3 07:30:30 MDT 2008


You're correct Ed,

I'm sold on switching to to the Molding glue.  The regular Titebond is too 
runny and I spend too much time catching drips and even after I do, I get 
the occasional hardened drip down into the coving.  That's a pain to clean 
up!  I know a lot of the traditionalists like hot hide, but I've never 
really used it.  I did see, in the hardware store, Titebond liquid hide 
glue the other day. 

Has anyone tried that?

Thanks again to everyone for the good info on molding glue.  On to the 
next set of hammers!

Paul






"Ed  Sutton" <ed440 at mindspring.com> 
Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org
07/03/2008 08:08 AM
Please respond to
Ed  Sutton <ed440 at mindspring.com>; Please respond to
College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>


To
"College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org>
cc

Subject
Re: [CAUT] a simple question






Some clarification here:
 
Titebond Original Wood Glue is a yellow glue. It will need thickening for 
hammer hanging.
 
Titebond Molding and Trim Wood Glue is a white glue. It is already thick 
to a "no-run, no-drip" consistancy. I don't think it requires, or should 
be thickened before hanging hammers. Its initial set is fast. Unless the 
hammers are bored very loose to the shanks, you can move the Spurlock jig 
to the next section in just a few minutes. You can tell when the glue has 
set by testing a hammer.
 
Both glues can do a good job for hanging hammers. Most folks who try the 
Molding and Trim Glue like it because it doesn't run or drip very much, 
and makes a neat job easier to attain.
 
Ed Sutton
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20080703/11965f58/attachment.html 


More information about the caut mailing list

This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC