Awfully persnickety their Jon. I do get it. You weigh the hammers and then weigh the shank strike weight and match up the heavier shanks to the lighter hammers in any given section in order to achieve a smooth curve. If you can't get the curve from that you then alter the mass of the hammer (I presume) to achieve your final curve. I first taper the hammers on a table saw, dry fit them to the shanks and then measure the assembled strike weights. Where the curve needs to be altered I either add or subtract weight from the hammer. You go through and weigh two items (hammers and shanks) draw up two charts and then mix and match from the charts to find a smooth curve. I weigh one item, draw up one chart and than add or subtract from the hammer (not while glued to the shank as Breckne suggests) but before they are glued (very neat and clean). They both achieve the same result, smooth strike weight. But your procedure has more steps. It doesn't really matter to me how you are anyone else wants to do it. That, of course, is your choice. My only reason for pointing this out is that for those concerned with actual time spent (not imagined time) then they should be aware that there are alternatives that achieve the same result and those alternatives might be more expeditious. No need to be insulting. David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jon Page Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 7:19 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: [CAUT] Shank to Hammer weight spreadsheet No, you still don't get it. -- Regards, Jon Page
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