The first day I worked in the shop of my late, great mentor, Keith Hardesty, he asked me if I knew how to screw in a screw. I sensed that there was more to this question than might initially meet the eye. I answered that I thought I did, but I probably was about to learn a better way (which turned out to be a good response). He explained that one must first turn the screw COUNTER-clockwise, until one hears and/or feels the threads of the screw fall into alignment with the threads of the hole. This technique greatly reduces the incidence of stripped screw holes....provided your student assistants are listening to your instructions and remember your pearls of wisdom. But that is an entirely different riddle in itself. Alan Eder -----Original Message----- From: Jim Busby <jim_busby at byu.edu> To: College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> Sent: Wed, 27 Jun 2007 3:14 pm Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair Hi Don, You’re right, under normal circumstances the methods listed below work well. I generally use the Fastenall system after the 2nd stripping of the hole. At BYU, with all the student helpers, we do end up with many stripped holes. Green student techs sometimes have more muscle than wisdom. Jim Busby BYU ------------------------------------------------------------ From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Don Mannino Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 11:51 AM To: College and University Technicians Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair Mark, A couple of other repairs that work well if the hole isn't too far gone . . . 1. Oversized screws are available from Yamaha - or at least, they used to have them. I haven't checked recently :-) 2. Swedging the hole works very well in many cases. I use a fine screwdriver with a sharp tip, position it at the edge of the hole and tap with a small hammer until you have a mark in the aluminum. Repeat in a star pattern around the hole on all sides, so that you end up with 8 little lines radiating out from the hole. The original screw should tighten normally now. In extreme cases I have turned the rail over and repeated the swedging on the bottom as well. Really, the hole would need to be really, really badly damaged to require a threaded insert, but I can see that happening. Don Mannino ------------------------------------------------------------ From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Mark Cramer Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:34 AM To: College and University Technicians Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair How timely Barbara and Jim, I'm just traveling a new set of S/F's on a 1976 C-7 and found a stripped hole in the bass. Can you suggest a place to look for this kit... auto supplies, etc? Does it have a parts number, or go by the thread size? Otherwise, I seem to recall someone suggesting there was a nominal upsize thread (imperial or metric?) that could be used. thanks, Mark Cramer Brandon University PS The alignment groove in the aftermarket parts I'm using doesn't quite line up with the wire Yamaha recesses into their action rails. This pulls the flange away from the lip that the flanges butt against, making it difficult to get a nice alignment. Fortunately, there's a recess in that lip, and I was ABEL to thread a peice of #16 music wire between and the flange. Now I'm left with about a .25mm gap between the lip and the flange, but at least it's precise. -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org]On Behalf Of Barbara Richmond Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:34 AM To: College and University Technicians Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair Hi Jim, I bought the Recoil kit, but it has no screws in it. What screws did you use? John Dewey also mentioned this repair in his class, Action Frame Diagnosis and Repair, so, if it is OK with you, I will also list him on the submission since I am putting together a special "TT&T goes to the convention." Thanks, Barbara ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Busby To: College and University Technicians Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 3:58 PM Subject: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair List, Here’s a way to repair stripped screw holes (Especially if an oversized screw strips) in an aluminum rail that takes less than a minute or two. “Helicoils” is what they are called. (See attached pic.) You drill out the hole and tap it, then insert the little coil which disappears into the tapped threads, and then you’re good to go! Maybe this has been shown on CAUT before, I don’t remember seeing it. The new screw is actually a machine screw with fine threads so it takes a few more rotations, but this is way better than anything else I’ve ever tried. The package shows a bolt, but what actually goes in has a Phillips head and looks like a normal screw. Jim Busby RPT BYU ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. 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