[CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair

[Mark Cramer]

How timely Barbara and Jim, I'm just traveling a new set of S/F's on a 1976
C-7 and found a stripped hole in the bass.

Can you suggest a place to look for this kit... auto supplies, etc? Does it
have a parts number, or go by the thread size?

Otherwise, I seem to recall someone suggesting there was a nominal upsize
thread (imperial or metric?) that could be used.

thanks,
Mark Cramer
Brandon University

PS The alignment groove in the aftermarket parts I'm using doesn't quite
line up with the wire Yamaha recesses into their action rails. This pulls
the flange away from the lip that the flanges butt against, making it
difficult to get a nice alignment.

Fortunately, there's a recess in that lip, and I was ABEL to thread a peice
of #16 music wire between and the flange. Now I'm left with about a .25mm
gap between the lip and the flange, but at least it's precise.



  -----Original Message-----
  From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org]On Behalf Of
Barbara Richmond
  Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:34 AM
  To: College and University Technicians
  Subject: Re: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair


  Hi Jim,

  I bought the Recoil kit, but it has no screws in it.  What screws did you
use?

  John Dewey also mentioned this repair in his class, Action Frame Diagnosis
and Repair, so, if it is OK with you, I will also list him on the submission
since I am putting together a special "TT&T goes to the convention."

  Thanks,

  Barbara
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Jim Busby
    To: College and University Technicians
    Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 3:58 PM
    Subject: [CAUT] Aluminum hammer rail (Screw hole) repair


    List,



    Here’s a way to repair stripped screw holes (Especially if an oversized
screw strips) in an aluminum rail that takes less than a minute or two.
“Helicoils” is what they are called. (See attached pic.)



    You drill out the hole and tap it, then insert the little coil which
disappears into the tapped threads, and then you’re good to go! Maybe this
has been shown on CAUT before, I don’t remember seeing it. The new screw is
actually a machine screw with fine threads so it takes a few more rotations,
but this is way better than anything else I’ve ever tried. The package shows
a bolt, but what actually goes in has a Phillips head and looks like a
normal screw.



    Jim Busby RPT

    BYU
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