Wim, I appreciate your interest. The size of the drop of resin depends on the space in the bridge top opposite the string, that is, how much will the space take, I usually start with a drop about the diameter of the pin and placed at the pin/bridge interface opposite the string. A regular soldering iron heats the pin too quickly and too hot causing the resin to bubble and set up too quickly, a pencil iron is too weak taking too long to heat the pin; a soldering gun, though having a wide range of flexibility is easily controlled by watching the resin becoming very liquid and melting into the cavity, heat should removed immediately for the resin to gain its maximum integrity. I have used super glue in my experiments but not with the success of either a five or a thirty minute epoxy. I have not tried heat with super glue. In approximately one/half of the cases of "false" strings, a correction may be more quickly made by driving the string into the middle of the bridge making a straight line contact of string to bridge from the front pin to the back pin. Daniel Gurnee, RPT, HSU Retired. On Monday, April 9, 2007, at 07:09 AM, Willem Blees wrote: > Daniel > > Could you explain this method, please. From what you are saying, do > you heat the top of the bridge pin, and then allow the super glue to > flow into the wood? How much do you heat the pin? What do you use to > heat the pin? (soldering iron, I presume). How much epoxy do you apply > to the pin? > > Thanks > > Wim > > Quoting Daniel Gurnee <dgurnee at humboldt1.com>: > >> John, et al, >> >> I found that epoxies become extremely fluid when heated and flow >> very >> freely between the pin and bridge. The temperature is critical but >> when applied to the top of the bridge pin will cause the epoxy, >> previously applied epoxy to the side of the pin opposite from the >> string, will show an extremely viscus nature which will suck into the >> >> joining of the pin a d bridge. >> >> The results vary with the various epoxies some of which setup with >> greater rigidity and the pins do not need to be removed. >> >> Daniel Gurnee, RPT, HSU >> >> >> >> On Friday, April 6, 2007, at 12:10 PM, John Ross wrote: >> >>> The epoxy would mean removing, and replacing the bridge pins. >>> Possibly C/A might be worth a try first. Easier. >>> John M. Ross >>> Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada >>> jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Minor" <jminor at uiuc.edu> >>> To: "caut" <caut at ptg.org> >>> Sent: Friday, April 06, 2007 3:15 PM >>> Subject: [CAUT] restrung D >>> >>> >>>> Wim, >>>> >>>> I've had similar problems with a restrung B. I suspect part of the >> >>>> problem is due to the high volume of air flowing around the piano >> >>>> from the air handler fan speed. Fresh air from outside is required >> to >>>> keep air healthy. My situation worsened after the building had >> fans >>>> upgraded and outside dampers improved to bring in MORE fresh air. >>>> >>>> Another possible cause is loose bridge pins caused by the >> extremely >>>> dry air in commercial buildings in the winter. I'm planning on >> doing >>>> an experiment with epoxy in bridge pins in one section to see if >>>> things improve. >>>> >>>> Good luck! This can be extremely frustrating! One of my secret >> fears >>>> is that people will think I don't tune the piano at all, *OR* that >> I >>>> do a lousy job!! : ( >>>> >>>> John Minor >>>> University of Illinois >>>> >>>> >>>> I >>> >> > > > Willem Blees, RPT > Piano Tuner/Technician > School of Music > University of Alabama > Tuscaloosa, AL USA > 205-348-1469 > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 3823 bytes Desc: not available Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20070409/a0e27dba/attachment-0001.bin
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