[CAUT] arbor press

[Ken Zahringer]

Hey, David,

There are three modifications.  I didn¹t use any of the parts in the
Stanwood kit.  I wanted to preserve them intact for possible future options.

The anvil: Get an old 7/64 drill bit and break/cut 1/2² or so off the butt
end.  You¹ll use this short end later.  I shaped a piece of 1/2² baltic
birch plywood to fit in the base of the press and epoxied the bit in one
end, upside down, so the butt end would stick through the little hole in the
base.  On my last set of hammers I pushed the bit through the wood, so I
guess I¹ll do it over in metal.  I have about 3/4² of bit sticking out from
the wood piece.

The ram:  Your press will come with a pin punch and a small hex head machine
screw for inserting center pins.  Both thread into the ram.  Get another hex
head machine screw that size, drill a hole in the center of the head, and
epoxy the short end of the bit into the screw.  I have about 1/4² of bit
sticking out of the screw.  When you get it all together, just make sure you
have enough space between the ram and the anvil to get a hammer in between,
with some to spare.

The handle: The original handle is a piece of 3/8² or 1/2² flat steel stock.
I broke mine on my second set of hammers, right at the hole where the ram
attaches to the handle.  I made a new handle from 3/4² flat stock, 1/16²
thick.  It is holding up well.  I cut a 3/4² dowel in half and attached it
with screw posts, like a butcher knife handle, then rounded the end on the
grinder.  All the press parts are held together with roll pins, so
disassembly and assembly is pretty easy.  The main change I made in the
handle is where the ram attaches.  Since the handle moves in an arc and the
ram moves vertically, the contact point moves back along the handle when you
push down.  The solution in the original handle was a big hole, which left
very little metal at that point.  That¹s fine for center pins, not so good
for a swaging press.  I used a smaller bit and a really small file to make a
horizontal slot for the ram attachment pin, preserving the handle¹s
strength.  If you have access to a milling machine, that would make the
operation a lot easier.  I also had to round off the pivot end of the handle
for clearance in the yoke where it attaches.

I hope this is reasonably clear.  If not, let me know and I¹ll bring my
camera in tomorrow and take pictures.

Regards,
Ken Z.


On 9/5/06 1:13 PM, "David Ilvedson" <ilvey at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Ken,
> 
> I just talked with a "technician" at Schaff..I was going to recommend they
> consider retrofitting that tool for the Sanderson method...he had never heard
> of him and didn't know what I was talking about...;-]   The tool is only
> $17.95 and the pin is removable so a larger one can be installed...explain the
> handle retrofit you talked about...
> 
> I went ahead and ordered one...
> 
> 
> David Ilvedson, RPT
> Pacifica, CA 94044
> 
> 
> 
> Original message
> From: "Ken Zahringer"
> To: "College and University Technicians"
> Received: 9/5/2006 10:52:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] arbor press
> 
> 
> Hey, David,
> 
> They don¹t exist.  You have to make your own.
> 
> Stanwood uses a benchtop drill press.  I¹ve only got my big drill, so I
> modified a center pin punch, Schaff #178, p. 44.  This included making a new
> handle, since the old one was too wimpy for lead.  Some years back John
> Hartmann described a press he made for installing backchecks, out of a device
> that converts your hand drill to a drill press.  It looked cool, so I kept the
> link: http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=g8061  I suppose you
> could make a chuck of some sort for that as well.
> 
> Regards,
> Ken Z.
> 
> 
> On 9/5/06 12:10 PM, "David Ilvedson" <ilvey at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
>> Where the heck do you find a small arbor press for lead in hammers?  I'm not
>> having any luck in my area...all 1 ton+
>> 
>> 
>> David Ilvedson, RPT
>> Pacifica, CA 94044


-- 
Ken Zahringer, RPT
Piano Technician
MU School of Music
297 Fine Arts
882-1202
cell 489-7529

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