[CAUT] Baldwin SD-10 questions

Alan McCoy amccoy at mail.ewu.edu
Mon Oct 23 11:25:36 MDT 2006


Stan,

The attached doc is a diagram created by Del Fandrich for modifying these
capo pieces. I have not done this modification, but I have one SD-10 here
that will eventually need something done.

Del, you want to step in here?

Alan

-- Alan McCoy, RPT
Eastern Washington University
amccoy at mail.ewu.edu
509-359-4627


> From: Stan Kroeker <smkroeker at shaw.ca>
> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org>
> Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 12:25:39 -0500
> To: CAUT <CAUT at ptg.org>
> Subject: [CAUT] Baldwin SD-10 questions
> 
> Dear Colleagues,
> 
> After years of rebuilding 'every other kind of piano', I have
> recently invited a 1969 Baldwin SD-10 into my workshop.  This will be
> a first in dealing with the patented plate suspension system and the
> accujust hitch pins.  This piano suffers from several things:
> snapping tight tuning pins (I believe Baldwin has a reputation for
> this?), poor tone and 'sizzling' noises in the capo region (what are
> those machined pieces called, which bolt to the underside of the
> capo?).   I love a challenge and am in the process of studying what
> literature I can find on these unique instruments.  Several questions
> immediately spring to mind:
> 
> Although I don't normally adhere to 'hard-and-fast' rules, I learned
> long ago (the hard way) that it is generally false economy not to
> replace the pinblock when the plate is out (for soundboard and bridge
> reconditioning).  However, the pins are so tight on this piano, that
> I'm wondering if there might be merit in re-using the block, possibly
> with the same size pins?  Or, reaming for 3/0?  Not sure why I'm
> trying to talk myself out of a new block (it's in the budget anyway)
> as I particularly enjoy this process.
> 
> Secondly, those machined capo pieces appear to have a radius at the
> string contact point, quite a bit larger than other pianos.  I once
> treated the sizzling strings on this piano by tapping them sideways
> and back into position.  This nearly eliminated all noises but it
> didn't last long.  What are your feelings on grinding a smaller
> radius on these pieces or does case hardening preclude this?  The few
> times I have departed from a manufacturer's original design, it was
> only with great trepidation but a solid conviction that it was the
> only solution to the problem.
> 
> Thirdly, the question of re-stringing on accujust hitch pins.  In the
> absence of specialized tools/jigs to measure bearing I can think of
> several ways to at least get the strings back to their original
> positions on the pins (digital calipers as depth gauge?)  However,
> perhaps this is an ideal opportunity to establish uniform bearing (if
> it didn't exist previously).  Although I have the Lowell downbearing
> gauge, I find it rather cumbersome and unwieldy.  On the several
> soundboard replacements I have done, I have simply established
> bearing with a string and thickness gauges.  How about a rocker
> bearing gauge and feeler gauges?
> 
> Fourthly, the question of the plate suspension bolts.  Actually, I
> just blundered onto Nick Gravagne's article in the reprint book
> (Pinblocks and Plates) which, as most of his writing does, de-
> mystifies the process of relocating the plate.  Any additional advice
> to offer prior to teardown and subsequent re-installation?
> 
> 
> Thanks and best regards to all,
> 
> Stan Kroeker, RPT
> 
> 

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