[CAUT] RE : key bushing removal

[Willem Blees]

Quoting Paul T Williams <pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu>:

> Hi Willem,
> 
> Don't you let the wood dry before installing new bushings?  That is,
> if 
> you're steaming them out....
> 
> Paul

I do a whole set of keys in one pass. By the time I get the last 
bushing out, the first ones have dried sufficiently to accept the new 
bushing. But that is also the reason I let the cauls sit in the 
bushing for a minimum of 4 hours, but preferably 6 - 8 hours. 

Wim 
 
> 
> 
> Willem Blees <wblees at bama.ua.edu> 
> Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org
> 11/06/2006 12:30 PM
> Please respond to
> College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>
> 
> 
> To
> College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>
> cc
> 
> Subject
> Re: [CAUT] RE :  key bushing removal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> I do have a problem, at times, with a button coming loose. But I
> don't 
> think it is such a big deal. A little super glue and the button is 
> back in place. 
> 
> On some balance rail bushings where the felt is actually underneath 
> the button, I use a thin screw driver to remove the felt. It takes a
> 
> little longer, but have not had much trouble with it. 
> 
> I use Spurlock's cauls and it takes me about 2 hours to remove, and 
> rebush a front or balance rail. If I do the balance rail in the 
> morning, I can do the front rail late in the afternoon, and by next 
> morning, after I trim, I'm ready to install the keys. 
> 
> Wim 
> Willem Blees, RPT
> Piano Tuner/Technician
> School of Music
> University of Alabama
> Tuscaloosa, AL USA
> 
> 
> Quoting "rwest1 at unl.edu" <rwest1 at unl.edu>:
> 
> > Wim:
> > 
> > I used to use that method, but one time the bushings were 
> > particularly stubborn, so much so that steaming out the bushings
> was 
> > 
> > also loosening the glue joint holding the button to the key.  Since
> 
> > 
> > then I've used the felt-plugs-in-the-mortise method. I like that
> the 
> > 
> > bushings come out easily, but it's also easy to get too much water
> in
> > 
> > the plug and key.  I've also tried dampening the bushings and the 
> > using the hot (as in soldering iron hot) brass bushing remover.  I
> 
> > didn't have much luck with that.
> > 
> > What are the opinions on the best bushing removal method?  Are
> there 
> > 
> > any other methods out there that are less apt to cause trouble?  I
> 
> > get a good final result, but I'm just not very happy with how I get
> 
> > 
> > there.
> > 
> > Also the big reason why I like hot hide glue is that it provides a
> 
> > good, long-lasting glue joint that lets go when you want it to. In
> a 
> > 
> > university setting that's a great feature.
> > 
> > I hope this isn't too basic for this esteemed list.
> > 
> > Richard West
> > 
> > 
> > On Nov 6, 2006, at 10:59 AM, Willem Blees wrote:
> > 
> > > Quoting Cy Shuster <cy at shusterpiano.com>:
> > >
> > >> How do you get 'em out when you rebush?  That's the downside of
> > >> Titebond...
> > >>
> > >> --Cy--
> > >
> > > I use the old ironand wet cloth method, and I have an easier
> time
> > > getting busings out when I've used titebond than some of the
> other
> > > glues some of the factories use.
> > >
> > > Wim
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "Willem Blees" <wblees at bama.ua.edu>
> > >> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org>
> > >> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:17 PM
> > >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] RE : key bushings
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> Why bother with sticks and brushes? I use tightbond and put it
> > on
> > >> with
> > >>> my fingers.
> > >>>
> > >>> Wim
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > Willem Blees, RPT
> > > Piano Tuner/Technician
> > > School of Music
> > > University of Alabama
> > > Tuscaloosa, AL USA
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


Willem Blees, RPT
Piano Tuner/Technician
School of Music
University of Alabama
Tuscaloosa, AL USA