Bob, You won't have to remove the bridge from the board if you do the following: Drill a few 1/8" holes up from the crack through the bridge or apron (carefully select your spots), then tape under the holes and split. Use a thin slow setting epoxy (like West System with the slowest hardener) and keep filling the holes until the epoxy level stops going down. This takes a while (an hour or two). The epoxy will flow by capillary action into the split and displace the air before setting. A raw umber epoxy coloring agent can improve the appearance of the job. You may have to top off the holes a day later to bring the epoxy level (which will have gone down slightly overnight) flush with the surface. Hope this helps. Bill Schneider -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Bob Hull Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 10:47 AM To: College and University Technicians Subject: [CAUT] Bass bridge removal Hi List, On a small grand we're rebuilding there is a crack that runs along close to the side (the rim side) of the bass bridge and actually under the length of the bridge. SB replacement is not in the picture but epoxy in the cracks will be used. We've dried the board down. Do we need to pull the bridge in order to secure that crack that is underneath the bridge? If so, what methods do you recommend? There are four screws underneath, and I know some form of moisture and heat will soften the glue joint, but I would like some specific recommendations on this. The narrowly designed bridge has a small "apron" offsetting it for longer speaking lengths and or giving it a connection to a more flexible part of the SB. Thanks. Bob Hull __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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