[CAUT] naturals contact sharp punchings

[Mark Cramer]

Over Christmas break, I ran into an old regulating problem, where once sharp
key-dip was set, the naturals "bottomed-out" on the sharp's front-rail
punchings.

This typically happens when original ivory has been replaced with
over-thickness plastic key-tops ("Chicklets" as Ted Sambell calls them)
without milling down the key-sticks to compensate.

On this action however (a lovely  7' Heintzman c.1959), the key-set was
"original" (ebony & ivory), and I could find nothing unusual in
measurements/observations to indicate why.

And I never did solve the riddle, but here's what turned out to be a nice
solution:

A strip of maple veneer (cabinet-maker's edge banding) added .025" to the
key at the point of punching contact. A warm iron activates the glue and
makes for a very secure lamination.

Removing .025" in paper from every sharp's front-rail stack preserved
key-dip dimensions, and the punchings no longer interfere with key-dip of
naturals.

I think it took Jeremy about 1 1/2 hours to veneer all the sharps, sand them
flush, remove surplus paper-punchings and replace the stack.

We really liked this repair!

Though we've never had the adhesive fail in use, it is reversible.
Nonetheless, I think we're going to call this modification "permanent."

BTW, this afternoon I've just looked in on one of our old "beater"
practice-room grands to see what a day's TLC might do.

Turns out it has a shiny set of "Chicklets" complete with overhang on three
sides of the key, and sharps that disappear into the abyss....

Mark Cramer,
Brandon University



















With glue