Jeff, This is good advice...especially the part about allowing the lacquer to set. I would suggest only that you might wind up putting the lacquer over the crown of the extreme treble (the top 4 - 5 hammers); while avoiding doing so in the bass. Using 4:1, as Roger suggests, allows you to apply the lacquer solution to either the shoulder or the side of the hammer. Except when it has seemed necessary, I have avoided putting solutions in the side, preferring to use a slightly thinner solution and watching carefully as it flows into the hammer. This not only gives you more control over where the solution goes, it also helps to avoid the concrete-block syndrome seen so often (especially when one inevitably has to reshape the hammers). Best. Horace At 11:22 AM 2/17/2005, you wrote: >Hi Jeff, > Try the Ronsen, Werzen felt. It will be very close. They > were a softer cold pressed hammer, usually juiced in the top and bottom > octave. Use 4:1 lacquer to lacquer thinner. Let harden for 2 or 3 days > before further voicing for best results. > >Regards Roger > > >At 09:43 AM 2/17/2005, you wrote: > >>On Thursday, February 17, 2005, at 10:35 AM, Roger Jolly wrote: >>> >>>To work well, the hammer needs to be a bit softer and more flexible in >>>the shoulder. To be quite honest, I have no problems working with this >>>system. >>> >>>Regards Roger >> >>Nor do I. I much prefer the tone of our 1982 SF to the tone of the >>1994's. It's much easier to tune, but that may be in the hammers. I'd >>love to know what those earlier hammers were, so I can replace the newer >>ones with something similar. I can't stand the sound these 1994 hammers >>produce. >> >>Jeff >> >>_______________________________________________ >>caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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