[CAUT] Re: Steinway Damper sytem upgrade & redesign

[David Ilvedson]

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So it sounds like a good Journal article....?
David I.


----- Original message ---------------------------------------->
From: <Erwinspiano@aol.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>, <caut@ptg.org>
Received: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 16:38:08 EST
Subject: [CAUT] Re: Steinway Damper sytem upgrade & redesign

In a message dated 11/7/2004 10:06:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,=
 Erwinspiano writes:
List.
  I thought I'd share some more piano related stuff to clean out=
 any potential political residue lefet over in anyones palate=
 from last week as my penance for irritating some with My=
 uncharacteristic share of dreaded political OTs post.
   
 
I've been modifying many of  old Steinway damper systems with a=
 variety of features which greatly improves its functionability &=
 adjustability. Many of these ideas are not my own but have found=
 them useful just the same.grin. I've been installing the new=
 Renner Back actions fairly routinely which gives a more=
 effective sostenuto usage with the spring loaded tabs & also the=
 fact that individual parts can be taken off for service if=
 necessary without disassembling the whole dang damper action=
 I.E. to reglue some flanges that have come unglued or repin a=
 part or two.
   Along with  this I've also found that a few other=
 modifications which are not difficult to execute also increase=
 performance.
 ! Installing the tray center pivot pin so it is in line with the=
 underlever centers. This requires modifying or making a new=
 pivot block for at least one end.
  Result. 1.This eliminates the disparity of function in the=
 upstop adjustment. Meaning an upstop adjustment is made which is=
 equally good for pedal lift as is it is for individual key=
 lift.
  2. the heavy pedal syndrome is made more normal by reducing=
 weight & friction felt on the pedal & eliminates much of the=
 damper thumping on the strings by less experienced players
  3. Eliminates the severe dipping of the underlevers when the=
 tray is out of adjustment that digs out the key lift felt with=
 extra friction caused by the out of adjustment.
  4. removing wooden or brass pedal pitmans that (always) squeak.=
 This requires drilling an enlarged hole thru the keybed 3/4" or=
 so & installing a wooden dowel with 3/4" front punchings glued=
 to each end & a balance rail pin installed and protruding 3/16 =
 inch out of the dowel. The tray & pedal lever are drilled to=
 accommodate the felt & pin   The result is a totally quiet=
 squeak-free movement
 5. Install a new set of Modern adjustable pedal rods. What a=
 blessing. See pianotek
 6. Install a capstan as a sustain pedal lever travel limiter on=
 the bottom of the keybed. This removes the archaic block of felt=
 method formerly employed on all Stwy pianos, & others of course=
 & allows for a precise amount of damper lift& lever travel. A=
 nice feature which keeps the underlevers from slamming into the=
 upstop felt creating those annoying dents which reduce=
 function.
 7.  relocate tray return springs. In these pianos either a leaf=
 spring type was used in the top treble end of the tray or in=
 later models a coil spring was applied  on the bass end of the=
 tray causing the tray to warp.
   The new springs are fit between the lever sections. One is=
 mounted close to the pitman which is where it needs to be to=
 keep the tray from being twisted during lift,resulting in a=
 strange array of damper lift setting problems & eventual tray=
 warpage. Some systems require another mounted between bass and=
 tenor sections.
 8. The last thing which is new to me came about because of a=
 conversation with David Love about this. Del had done a tray for=
 him this way & I'd heard about others doing this so...
    I mounted small11/32inch long capstans under each underlever.=
 This allows for a very precise & perfect damper lift without all=
 the usual futzing and straining to move a lever in the flange=
 just the tiniest fraction of a mm/or inch for standard folks.
  The lip of the tray needs to be thinned by about 3 mm to allow=
 for capstan head clearance. A quick pass on the table saw does=
 this in a second. 
  Drill the appropriate size hole for the capstan shank & press=
 with arbor press or Tap in carefully with a hammer with the tray=
 supported really well
8. Installing the extra wide bichord agraffes from Pianotek on=
 the lowest 4 bichords increase the ability of the bichord felt=
 to get between the large bichord bass strings which really=
 improves damping.
 9 On many pianos, especially longer ones I also find improved=
 damping by using four equally cut pieces of damper felt in the=
 mono- chord section & on the first 2 to 4 bichord notes. This is=
 especially helpful on longer strings & also on smaller  pianos=
 on which I have had all my mono chords double wrapped by the=
 string maker.
  
 
  An Addendum.
   Some later stwys , 1950 ish & later came without return=
 springs. I've learned this the hard way, ( of course), that=
 these need springs especially in the bass. This is my humble=
 opinion based on failure to damp experience, even with proper=
 fitted guide rail bushings & nicely fit wires, head lift etc.
  These upgraded systems are a huge improvement over the original=
 equipment setup IMHO and are not difficult to do. It does=
 increase labor time but it's worth it
  Hope this is food for thought and comment.
  Dale Erwin
 
 
Erwins Pianos Restorations 
4721 Parker Rd.
Modesto, Ca 95357
209-577-8397
Rebuilt Steinway , Mason &Hamlin Sales
www.Erwinspiano.com


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