This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
Lance-
As Ron Koval said, Paul Revenko-Jones is the man for string =
terminations.
The diagram I'm sending is on the notes from one of his classes.
His is the sort of class one should take two or three times.
The string doesn't terminate in a point, or hinge. The little =
curved place in the string rocks back and forth and sideways over a =
smaller radiused rounded edge. The string is work-hardening this groove =
into the bar, and you don't want to remove the "good" part of the =
groove, just the excess. To get a sense of this, make a capo shape in =
modelling clay, and rock a pencil or rod across it like an imaginary =
vibrating string. It digs a groove, and also pushes up edges on the =
groove. If the bar is shaped right, then you want to keep the bottom of =
the groove, but get rid of some of the pushed up edge.=20
If the bar is too narrow, the string works too deep into the bar. =
(Make a very narrow clay edge, and note how easily the pencil cuts into =
it.)
If the bar is too wide, the string bumps into the bar on its widest =
excursion, somewhat like a worn fret on a steel strung guitar. The =
problem is greatest on the longer string lengths of the capo section, =
because the excursion of the string is greater.
As long as you have the modelling clay, you can explore and diagnose =
by pressing it up under the capo to take impressions. For instance, you =
might want to take impressions of a capo that works well, and compare =
with problem areas, to get some ideas of a redius that works well.
I think those fret files were cheaper at Stewart McDonalds Guitar =
Supply. I didn't like the one I got because the capo bar usually has =
something of a curve, and I didn't like the fit of the straight file =
(maybe it could be cut to a shorter section, or even bent.)
What I've done is just cut a little groove in a piece of hardwood, =
then I hold or glue a little piece of emery paper in it. I finish with a =
small curved burnisher.
I don't like the ideas of a"shoe-shining" across the bar, I prefer =
shaping with lengthwise strokes. The idea is not to get it perfectly =
smooth, but to get the bottoms of the work-hardened grooves at the right =
depth. You should still be able to feel them with your fingernail... =
just barely.=20
=20
Within the constraints of the S & S design, there are 3 causes of =
buzz: poorly shaped capo, capo bruised by rough stringing, capo too soft =
due to failure to case harden in casting. If the capo is too soft, I'm =
not sure what you can do.
Regards,=20
Ed Sutton
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Lance Lafargue=20
To: 'College and University Technicians'=20
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2003 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: Capo Buzz
Yes, please. Thanks.
=20
Lance Lafargue, RPT
LAFARGUE PIANOS
New Orleans Chapter, PTG
985.72P.IANO
lancelafargue@bellsouth.net
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of =
Ed Sutton
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 9:38 PM
To: College and University Technicians
Subject: Re: Capo Buzz
=20
Lance-
=20
Somewhere I have a diagram of a gadget that pulls the strings out of =
the way so you can work on the bearing surface.
If you want, I'll look for it and send you a copy.
=20
Ed S.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Lance Lafargue=20
To: 'College and University Technicians'=20
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Capo Buzz
=20
I am told that the main problem lies in the V bar, not in the =
hammer, and that smoothing the bar with sandpaper will clean up the =
termination and permanently fix the buzz. This is one of the few things =
I did not do, since I was really originally only out for a warranty =
tuning ; ) Thoughts? =20
=20
Lance Lafargue, RPT
LAFARGUE PIANOS
New Orleans Chapter, PTG
985.72P.IANO
lancelafargue@bellsouth.net
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf =
Of Lance Lafargue
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 9:32 PM
To: caut@ptg.org
Subject: Capo Buzz
=20
I have always struggled with the capo buzz in many pianos. Young =
Chang/Prambergers I've never succeeded with, Steinways, I usually can do =
it. I have discussed this many times with many techs. I am exhausted =
after a 14 hour day with three B's one of which is still giving me fits. =
It is a new Steinway B, prepped by a large reputable dealer. The piano =
was/is nice. But it was a little bright after some play and I went in, =
pitch raised it, stopped sympathetic aliquot ringing, leveled strings =
with my Mother Goose leveling tool, fit hammers to strings, worked on =
damper bleeding, etc. There were several hammers, especially the first =
C at the V bar that had a buzzing quality. I sugar coated/voiced, 3/8" =
needled the shoulders, evened everything out, got it acceptable, and the =
buzzing returned, a bit. Enough to bug the customer. =20
=20
After more sugar coating (shallow needling at crown) and more 3/8" =
inch needles just off of the string marks (both straight down and in at =
an angle), I am at the point where I am killing the bell quality and =
volume to extinguish the metallic buzzes. I believe these hammers were =
hardened with lacquer, not key top solution. Tapping strings onto =
bridges, done, seating strings at every termination point, done. This =
exists to some extent throughout the V bar area. This is the buzzing =
that goes away when you put your finger on the front duplex section. =
Just hoping I may hear something new (hoping not to hear a buzz). I =
appreciate any new suggestions, I am so worn out!
=20
Lance Lafargue, RPT
LAFARGUE PIANOS
New Orleans Chapter, PTG
985.72P.IANO
lancelafargue@bellsouth.net
=20
---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/6f/e5/f2/46/attachment.htm
---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC