capo buzz

[Isaac sur Noos]

I concur, : V shape does not stay long :(

A very good repair is to install a bronze / berylium rod in the capo.
There are sold in lenght, used for the planes and precision engines,
and are very expensive (kind of 80 USD a 1.50 m lenght of 5 mm rod
last time I asked)
But once a place for the rod is prepared you are the winner.

steel rod is too hard and anyway between the string and the capo there
is always a fight, the harder win, so having a metal that is self
lubricating, not too hard but resistant enough to friction and
compression is the solution of choice I believe.

An other advantage is that you can regulate the front bering on the
occasion.

Best regards.


Isaac OLEG

Entretien et reparation de pianos.

PianoTech
17 rue de Choisy
94400 VITRY sur SEINE
FRANCE
tel : 033 01 47 18 06 98
fax : 033 01 47 18 06 90
cell: 06 60 42 58 77

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De la part de
> Fred Sturm
> Envoye : jeudi 16 octobre 2003 19:57
> A : College and University Technicians
> Objet : RE: capo buzz
>
>
> Lance,
> 	70's through early 80's there was quite a fad of
> filing capos "to a
> point," by people following McMorrow's book. Then lots of
> techs found that
> the wire shortly buried itself in said point (ie, created
> grooves while
> being tuned and played), with associated loss of clarity
> and power and
> return of noise. Then some folks got the bright idea of
> hardening sharpened
> capo. Which solved one problem to cause another - increased string
> breakage. So that to this day there are those who
> associated hardened capos
> with string breakage (I think it is caused by the sharpened
> profile of the
> capo, meaning a sharper kink in the wire).
>   This, at any rate, is the observation of somebody who
> listened on the
> sidelines over those years. I think the consensus is .5mm
> is to short a
> radius. It's more important that the capo surface be smooth
> and clean - and
> lubricated after reshaping to reduce rust and string drag.
> You do want the
> shape to allow the wire to leave the capo cleanly: there
> must be adequate
> curvature.
> Regards,
> Fred Sturm
> University of New Mexico
>
> --On Thursday, October 16, 2003 11:01 AM -0500 Lance Lafargue
> <lancelafargue@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> > Thanks.  I have the McMorrow book and I've studied it.
> It basically
> > says to file a definite V with the contact point
> narrowing to a .5mm
> > width.  This seems that it would add to string breakage,
> but otherwise
> > makes sense.  I do plan to confirm the job is approved
> and that I will
> > be paid for my efforts.  McMorrow claims (back in
> 1980(?)s) to have done
> > 200+ of these and the problem is permanently fixed.
> >
> > What you claim about the casting flaring to join the
> strut explains why
> > those first notes are always the hardest to correct.  I've been
> > struggling with this for years and I hope I am closing
> in.  Smoothing to
> > a smoother U shape does not permanently correct the problem (in my
> > experience). Anyone have any experience doing this V-Bar
> shaping to a
> > V????? (not just smoothing with sandpaper to a smooth U)
> >
> > Lance Lafargue, RPT
> > LAFARGUE PIANOS
> > New Orleans Chapter, PTG
> > 985.72P.IANO
> > lancelafargue@bellsouth.net
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]
> On Behalf Of
> > Ron Koval
> > Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2003 8:33 AM
> > To: caut@ptg.org
> > Subject: capo buzz
> >
> > Hi Lance,
> >
> > Just pulling the strings up to pitch will make a groove.
> Then, if there
> > is
> > any spacing that is done, that makes more marks.  Add rubbing the
> > strings to
> > try to remove string bends, and the capo can get marked up pretty
> > quickly,
> > even on a new instrument.  Also, if you are having
> problems close to a
> > strut, many times the capo is too wide in that area as the casting
> > flares
> > out to join the strut.  Make sure when you are done reshaping and
> > dressing
> > the area, that you space the strings as you pull up to
> pitch, not after.
> >
> > See if braiding something works first, then make sure
> someone will pay
> > for
> > all the capo work before digging into this!
> >
> > Ron Koval
> > Concordia U.
> >
> >   I am told that the main problem lies in the V bar, not
> in the hammer,
> > =
> > and that smoothing the bar with sandpaper will clean up
> the termination
> > =
> > and permanently fix the buzz.  This is one of the few
> things I did not =
> > do, since I was really originally only out for a warranty
> tuning  ;  )
> > =
> > Thoughts? =20
> >
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