---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment In a message dated 1/21/2003 11:02:19 PM Pacific Standard Time, roger.j@sasktel.net writes: > Subj: Re: Yamaha Key bushings Leather > Date: 1/21/2003 11:02:19 PM Pacific Standard Time > From: <A HREF="mailto:roger.j@sasktel.net">roger.j@sasktel.net</A> > Reply-to: <A HREF="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</A> > To: <A HREF="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</A> > Sent from the Internet > > Hi Rodger > > Hi Dale, > Welcome to sanity and respect. >>>>>>>Thank You. Zzzzactly why I'm here . Great tip here, thanks so much > My good friend Ted Sambell, turned me on to the Kangaroo leather from > Schaff, it's sold under player parts. It's fairly consistent at .050" > thick. > You need a good cutter board and rotary cutter, to cut the required strips. > Lay the leather on the board. Cut the hide in half with a long straight > edge. Use 3 or 4 bushing cauls to align the straight edge to make the next > cut. Slice away. > I have used it on balance rails only, but the C3's I did a year ago, ( In > university use) is standing up very well, and it's not noisy like the > Renner leather. > Sizing the mortice before bushing is very important for good results. > After the keys are bushed, we dust the leather with Teflon powder. > I think the majority of wear to the FR bushing, is caused by the wear on > the balance rail bushings, that will cause the key to tilt. Just my own > theory. > Regards Roger > ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/05/12/57/47/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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