Sure, why not? Fred "David M. Porritt" wrote: > Fred: > > Couldn't you just use the hook and crank on the loop machine as your > dowel & cup hook? > > dave > > *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** > > On 2/25/2003 at 3:12 PM Fred S. Sturm wrote: > > >David, > > I'll just mention that you don't have to have a Zuckermann T > hammer > >to use Conrad's method. A dowel with a cup hook screwed into the end > >will do the same thing. In case you didn't follow what he described, > >what you are doing is fixing the two ends of the wire (clamping the > >speaking length to a table or whatever, holding the other with > pliers), > >and grabbing in between with the hook. Twisting the hook to form the > >helix coils is similar to how the bass string jig works, except you > >don't have a fixed jig to contend with - your hands will give enough > >play to avoid breakage. You control how tight the coils are by how > taut > >you hold the wire and pull with the hook, and by the angle you > maintain. > > > > I prefer what I described, probably because I got used to it > from > >stringing a few harpsichords before I tried the Zuckermann method. I > >found I could control the results better. But it's all what you get > used > >to and good at. > > > >Regards, > >Fred > > > >"David M. Porritt" wrote: > > > >> Fred et al: > >> > >> I have a loop maker to make bass string style loops (I bought it > when > >> I had to string a Mason & Hamlin "A" with all those single strings > in > >> the treble). Could that make appropriate loops for the > harpsichord > >> strings? I need to put on a string in a few days. The last > string I > >> put on a harpsichord I was not proud of! > >> > >> dave > >> > >> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** > >> > >> On 2/25/2003 at 9:44 AM Fred S. Sturm wrote: > >> > >> >Jim, > >> > On the assumption you are matching double helix loops with a > >> coil > >> >finish (the > >> >most common, looks like bass string hitch loops): > >> >1) You need a fixed substitute for the hitch pin. A large cup > hook > >> mounted > >> >to the > >> >edge of a table works. Or a headless nail held in a vice. > Whatever > >> it is, > >> >it needs > >> >to be positioned so that there are no obstructions in front of it > >> (to > >> >allow free > >> >movement of your hands). It should be of a large enough diameter > so > >> that > >> >the loop > >> >formed can easily fit over the hitch pin later. (I mostly use a > cup > >> hook > >> >screwed > >> >into the end of a dowel. I attach this with a spring clamp to the > >> edge of > >> >my cheap, > >> >metal harpsichord tool/supply case). > >> >2) Pull the wire around the dummy pin, so that it goes completely > >> around > >> >and > >> >crosses at a right angle. You need enough "waste length" to get a > >> good > >> >grip. 6 to > >> >10 inches should suffice. Hold the wire in that position with one > >> hand - > >> >the hand > >> >that you will use throughout to hold the speaking length. You > will > >> need to > >> >have > >> >decided whether the waste length goes over or under based on the > >> direction > >> >you want > >> >to the coils to go (look at one of the loops you are matching). > >> >3) Take the hand that is not holding the wire, and place it over > or > >> under > >> >the other > >> >hand (depending whether the waste length is over or under the > >> speaking > >> >length) and > >> >grab the waste length. Holding the wire taut with both hands, and > so > >> that > >> >the > >> >string forms a right angle where it meets, rotate both arms in a > >> full > >> >circle around > >> >one another (easier to show than describe this sort of thing), > >> keeping the > >> >wire > >> >taut and at right angle at all times, so that it actually makes > >> clear and > >> >sharp > >> >bends/coils around itself (each bends around the other). If you > have > >> been > >> >successful, you should be able to let go with one hand, and the > wire > >> will > >> >pretty > >> >much stay put. > >> >4) Repeat the above as many times as needed to create the number > of > >> coils > >> >desired. > >> >Steady, even movement, with wire held taut at all times, and > >> maintaining > >> >the 90 > >> >degree angle between wire ends, will allow for even, neat > >> appearance. > >> >5) For the finish coil, hold the speaking length of the wire taut > >> with one > >> >hand, > >> >pulling straight toward yourself. With the other hand, pull the > >> waste > >> >length of > >> >wire neatly around the speaking length. It is essential that the > >> wire be > >> >held taut > >> >at all times, and a bit of finesse is needed to start the coil > >> evenly. > >> >Again, the > >> >waste length hand lets go, and is moved around the speaking > length > >> hand to > >> >grab the > >> >waste length again. And you make as many tight, even coils as > needed > >> to > >> >match the > >> >original. > >> >6) Cut the wire, leaving a short segment (match originals), which > >> will > >> >rest on the > >> >hitch pin rail to help assure the coils don't unwind. It is > >> necessary to > >> >plan so > >> >that the final direction of that bit of waste length is under the > >> speaking > >> >length. > >> > A caution - don't overdo tightness of coils. If they are too > >> tight, > >> >you will > >> >have tail breakage. But if they are not tight enough, they'll > want > >> to > >> >unwind. You > >> >have to use good judgment here. > >> > > >> >Hope this helps. If it is unclear, please say so and I'll try to > >> explain > >> >better. > >> >It's much easier to demonstrate than describe. I'll also note > that > >> if you > >> >have a > >> >helper, you can use a dowel with a cuphook in the end. One person > >> holds > >> >the wire, > >> >tautly, at a 90 degree angle, while the other rotates the dowel. > >> With good > >> >teamwork, this can be a very successful method of making coils > (it's > >> what > >> >the > >> >Hubbard manual suggests). It does require a second person. > >> >Regards, > >> >Fred Sturm > >> >University of New Mexico > >> > > >> > > >> >James A Busby wrote: > >> > > >> >> List, > >> >> Does anyone have a website or instructions, tricks, etc. for > >> making > >> >hitch pin > >> >> loops for harpsichords? My loops are functional, but they don't > >> look > >> >uniform and > >> >> even. Thanks. > >> >> > >> >> (BTW, I know you can buy them premade, but I now have 4 > >> harpsichords > >> >and it > >> >> gets expensive to buy prefabs.) > >> >> > >> >> Jim Busby > >> >> BYU > >> >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ > >> >> caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >> > > >> >_______________________________________________ > >> >caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > >> > >> _____________________________ > >> David M. Porritt > >> dporritt@mail.smu.edu > >> Meadows School of the Arts > >> Southern Methodist University > >> Dallas, TX 75275 > >> _____________________________ > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > >_______________________________________________ > >caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > _____________________________ > David M. Porritt > dporritt@mail.smu.edu > Meadows School of the Arts > Southern Methodist University > Dallas, TX 75275 > _____________________________ > > _______________________________________________ > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC