thick or thin

[Tim Coates]

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Wim,

Next time the keys are low try changing the back rail felt.  The wrong
backrail felt lowers the front of the keys.  It's fast.  I don't like
using a lot of punchings on the balance rail as I feel it can create a
spongy feel.

I pre-compress all my balance rail and front rail felt punchings.  I
have a tool that Schaff sells for soundboard repair.  I've never used it
for that, though.  It has a 16 gauge piano wire with a block/wing nut on
one end and a washer/allen screw nut on the other.  The whole set of
punchings is put on the wire, compressed, tightened, rolled (like a
rolling pin) to align all, and sprayed with water.  The set sits and
dries for at least four days.  The punchings stay compressed but
resilient.  The leveling and dip hardly change once correctly set.

Back rail felt is the start though.

Tim Coates
Wapin Co., LLP


Wimblees@aol.com wrote:

> I am in the process of re-regualting a S&S M, where one of the main
> problems was that the keys were too low, (they were almost touching
> the front rail when depressed). I raised them all with cardboard and
> paper punchings.
>
> As I was doing this, I got thinking about this question. Are there any
> rules of thumb, or what is the general consensus, as to what thickness
> the wool balance rail punching should be? Should we have thick
> punchings with fewer paper/cardboard punchings, or thin punchings with
> lots of paper/cardboard? I guess I could ask the same for the front
> rail. Do we use thick felts and fewer cardboard, or the other way
> around? Or does it make any difference?
>
> Wim

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