buffing agraffes

[Isaac OLEG]

Seen them gold lacquered with P.U, not really so bad looking but the
A.... forget to ream and clean the holes, so dull strings ....


Isaac O

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De
> la part de Tim
> Coates
> Envoye : mercredi 16 octobre 2002 05:16
> A : College and University Technicians
> Objet : Re: buffing agraffes
>
>
> Mark,
>
> The steps you didn't mention in the method I suggested:
> re-sizing the holes
> and lacquering.  No agraffe rebuild is done correctly
> without doing that.  I
> don't like the dull and powdery looking finish either.
> That's why I clear
> coat.  I made a special point about lacquering.  If you
> where to compare the
> two methods correctly the only difference is one
> buffs/polishes and one
> doesn't.
>
> It seems you want the high polish look, so these are mute
> points anyway.   No
> offense taken, just pointing out what the true differences are.
>
> Tim Coates
> Wapin  Co., LLP
>
>
>
> Mark Cramer wrote:
>
> > I did try bead-blasting as recommended by Tim Coates.
> This method gets the
> > job done quickly, gets into the corners nicely and leaves
> a very uniform,
> > matte surface finish. Note; Mason & Hamlin mention this
> finishing detail of
> > their action frames in their promotional brochures.
> >
> > The overall finish is a bit dull and powdery looking,
> (similar to metallic
> > gold paint, without the clear coat)and could (as you
> wish) be done without
> > removing the agraffres from the plate. However,
> steel-wooling provides more
> > brilliance.
> >
> > The goal again was to provide new appearance to original
> agraffes, in the
> > somewhat rare instances where new replacements are unavailable.
> >
> > For the high lustre finish, Trevor Nelson RPT suggested
> the very hard
> > buffing wheel offered by Lee Valley tools for chisel
> honing. This became the
> > solution I was looking for; it is very quick, and here is
> how it works for
> > us:
> >
> > 1.) If badly tarnished, painted, etc.), pre-clean with
> Tarn-X, or even
> > bead-blasting
> >
> > 2.) buff on the hard felt wheel w/red tripoli
> >
> > 3.) re-size holes w/ jobber bit (thanks Roger J.)
> >
> > 4.) polish clean,       and lacquer
> >
> > 5.) point the finished product out with great pride to
> anyone who will give
> > audience to your ranting!  :>)
> >
> > Mark Cramer,
> > Brandon University
> >
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>
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