buffing agraffes

[Tim Coates]

Mark,

The steps you didn't mention in the method I suggested:  re-sizing the holes
and lacquering.  No agraffe rebuild is done correctly without doing that.  I
don't like the dull and powdery looking finish either.  That's why I clear
coat.  I made a special point about lacquering.  If you where to compare the
two methods correctly the only difference is one buffs/polishes and one
doesn't.

It seems you want the high polish look, so these are mute points anyway.   No
offense taken, just pointing out what the true differences are.

Tim Coates
Wapin  Co., LLP



Mark Cramer wrote:

> I did try bead-blasting as recommended by Tim Coates. This method gets the
> job done quickly, gets into the corners nicely and leaves a very uniform,
> matte surface finish. Note; Mason & Hamlin mention this finishing detail of
> their action frames in their promotional brochures.
>
> The overall finish is a bit dull and powdery looking, (similar to metallic
> gold paint, without the clear coat)and could (as you wish) be done without
> removing the agraffres from the plate. However, steel-wooling provides more
> brilliance.
>
> The goal again was to provide new appearance to original agraffes, in the
> somewhat rare instances where new replacements are unavailable.
>
> For the high lustre finish, Trevor Nelson RPT suggested the very hard
> buffing wheel offered by Lee Valley tools for chisel honing. This became the
> solution I was looking for; it is very quick, and here is how it works for
> us:
>
> 1.) If badly tarnished, painted, etc.), pre-clean with Tarn-X, or even
> bead-blasting
>
> 2.) buff on the hard felt wheel w/red tripoli
>
> 3.) re-size holes w/ jobber bit (thanks Roger J.)
>
> 4.) polish clean,       and lacquer
>
> 5.) point the finished product out with great pride to anyone who will give
> audience to your ranting!  :>)
>
> Mark Cramer,
> Brandon University
>
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