When the wood used for action parts was really dry a few decades ago, in good factories the shanks where sounded on a marble. For verticals it is still possible to do that, but for grand's, the shanks are often too soft , due to their moist content. It is nowadays still possible to avoid too soft ones, they simply don't tone at all. IO > -----Message d'origine----- > De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De > la part de Ed > Sutton > Envoye : jeudi 10 octobre 2002 01:28 > A : College and University Technicians > Objet : Re: Shank/Flange Weights > > > Avery- > If this is the first time you're creating a strike > weight continuity, > all of the shank weight shortcuts may be obscuring the basic issues. > You need to have the "raw" measurements and you need to > have an ideal > strikeweight curve with gram values. > Shuffling the shanks by weight will save you a little > extra lead or > sanding, but you can do a fine job just by gluing them up > as usual, weighing > them, creating a curve and adjusting the strikeweights. It > might be better > to take the simple approach first time. > Ed S. > > ---------- > >From: Avery Todd <atodd@UH.EDU> > >To: College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org> > >Subject: Re: Shank/Flange Weights > >Date: Wed, Oct 9, 2002, 1:05 PM > > > > > Jon & List, > > > >>It's not the actual weight of the s/f but he levered > weight which the string. > >> > >>With center pin on a pivot off the scale (flange is > straight up - no > >>weight effect) place the hammer end on a riser on the scale where > >>the hammer is glued. > >> > >>You will find the weight then to be in the range of 1.5g to 2 g > >> > >>Regards, > >> > >>Jon > > > > Jon & List, > > > > OK, the light bulb finally went off about the total > weight not mattering. > > The flange is out of the picture when it's screwed to the > rail!! Duh!!! > > > > It's going to be like pulling teeth, but I'm determined > to learn how to > > do this! Sorry for the novice questions. > > > > Below is a sample of what I came up with by just > arranging the s/f left > > to right, light to heavy and also weighing the hammers. > At the bottom are > > also a few readings at the thinned shank area. > > > > To determine the best order for installing the shanks, do > you go by the > > shank strike weight or the strike weight? Light on #1 > graduating to > > heavier until the thinned shank area then then the same > thing there? > > > > What else do I need to do before gluing on the hammers to > cut down as > > much as possible on evening things out later? > > > > SS HW SW > > > > 1.5 8.8 10.3 > > 1.6 8.9 10.4 > > 1.6 9.3 10.9 > > 1.5 9.3 10.8 > > 1.5 9.2 10.7 > > 1.5 9.2 10.7 > > 1.6 8.8 10.4 > > 1.5 8.9 10.4 > > 1.6 8.9 10.5 > > 1.6 8.7 10.3 > > 1.5 9.3 10.8 > > 1.5 9.5 11 > > 1.5 9.4 10.9 > > 1.5 9.4 10.9 > > 1.6 9.4 11 > > 1.6 9.2 10.8 > > 1.6 9.4 11 > > 1.6 9.1 10.7 > > 1.7 9 10.7 > > 1.7 8.9 10.6 > > 1.6 9 10.6 > > 1.6 8.8 10.4 > > 1.7 8.6 10.3 > > 1.6 8.8 10.4 > > 1.7 8.7 10.4 > > 1.7 8.6 10.3 > > (tenor break) > > 1.7 8.7 10.4 > > > > ====================================== > > 2 4.9 6.9 > > 1.4 4.8 6.2 (1st thinned shank) > > 1.5 5.3 6.8 > > 1.3 5.3 6.6 > > 1.3 5.4 6.7 > > > > Any comments or suggestions welcome. Thanks. > > > > Regards, > > Avery > > _______________________________________________ > > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > _______________________________________________ > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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