Shank/Flange Weights

Isaac OLEG oleg-i@wanadoo.fr
Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:13:23 +0200


When the wood used for action parts was really dry a few decades ago,
in good factories the shanks where sounded on a marble.

For verticals it is still possible to do that, but for grand's, the
shanks are often too soft , due to their moist content.
It is nowadays still possible to avoid too soft ones, they simply
don't tone at all.

IO

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De
> la part de Ed
> Sutton
> Envoye : jeudi 10 octobre 2002 01:28
> A : College and University Technicians
> Objet : Re: Shank/Flange Weights
>
>
> Avery-
>     If this is the first time you're creating a strike
> weight continuity,
> all of the shank weight shortcuts may be obscuring the basic issues.
>     You need to have the "raw" measurements and you need to
> have an ideal
> strikeweight curve with gram values.
>     Shuffling the shanks by weight will save you a little
> extra lead or
> sanding, but you can do a fine job just by gluing them up
> as usual, weighing
> them, creating a curve and adjusting the strikeweights. It
> might be better
> to take the simple approach first time.
>     Ed S.
>
> ----------
> >From: Avery Todd <atodd@UH.EDU>
> >To: College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org>
> >Subject: Re: Shank/Flange Weights
> >Date: Wed, Oct 9, 2002, 1:05 PM
> >
>
> > Jon & List,
> >
> >>It's not the actual weight of the s/f but he levered
> weight which the string.
> >>
> >>With center pin on a pivot off the scale (flange is
> straight up - no
> >>weight effect) place the hammer end on a riser on the scale where
> >>the hammer is glued.
> >>
> >>You will find the weight then to be in the range of 1.5g to 2 g
> >>
> >>Regards,
> >>
> >>Jon
> >
> > Jon & List,
> >
> > OK, the light bulb finally went off about the total
> weight not mattering.
> > The flange is out of the picture when it's screwed to the
> rail!! Duh!!!
> >
> > It's going to be like pulling teeth, but I'm determined
> to learn how to
> > do this! Sorry for the novice questions.
> >
> > Below is a sample of what I came up with by just
> arranging the s/f left
> > to right, light to heavy and also weighing the hammers.
> At the bottom are
> > also a few readings at the thinned shank area.
> >
> > To determine the best order for installing the shanks, do
> you go by the
> > shank strike weight or the strike weight? Light on #1
> graduating to
> > heavier until the thinned shank area then then the same
> thing there?
> >
> > What else do I need to do before gluing on the hammers to
> cut down as
> > much as possible on evening things out later?
> >
> > SS     HW     SW
> >
> > 1.5    8.8    10.3
> > 1.6    8.9    10.4
> > 1.6    9.3    10.9
> > 1.5    9.3    10.8
> > 1.5    9.2    10.7
> > 1.5    9.2    10.7
> > 1.6    8.8    10.4
> > 1.5    8.9    10.4
> > 1.6    8.9    10.5
> > 1.6    8.7    10.3
> > 1.5    9.3    10.8
> > 1.5    9.5    11
> > 1.5    9.4    10.9
> > 1.5    9.4    10.9
> > 1.6    9.4    11
> > 1.6    9.2    10.8
> > 1.6    9.4    11
> > 1.6    9.1    10.7
> > 1.7    9      10.7
> > 1.7    8.9    10.6
> > 1.6    9      10.6
> > 1.6    8.8    10.4
> > 1.7    8.6    10.3
> > 1.6    8.8    10.4
> > 1.7    8.7    10.4
> > 1.7    8.6    10.3
> > (tenor break)
> > 1.7    8.7    10.4
> >
> > ======================================
> > 2      4.9     6.9
> > 1.4    4.8     6.2 (1st thinned shank)
> > 1.5    5.3     6.8
> > 1.3    5.3     6.6
> > 1.3    5.4     6.7
> >
> > Any comments or suggestions welcome. Thanks.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Avery
> > _______________________________________________
> > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> _______________________________________________
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