Shank/Flange Weights

Isaac OLEG oleg-i@wanadoo.fr
Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:13:22 +0200


Hello,

As I said before I consider more useful to sort the shanks by pinning,
then, knock the shanks to avoid the soft ones in the treble and in the
basses.

When the hammers are glued, sounding the head + shanks of the last
treble hammers so they produce the same sound helps to obtain a better
high treble.

The shanks are thinned till the tone is even.

Regards.

IO

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De
> la part de Ed
> Sutton
> Envoye : jeudi 10 octobre 2002 01:28
> A : College and University Technicians
> Objet : Re: Shank/Flange Weights
>
>
> Avery-
>     If this is the first time you're creating a strike
> weight continuity,
> all of the shank weight shortcuts may be obscuring the basic issues.
>     You need to have the "raw" measurements and you need to
> have an ideal
> strikeweight curve with gram values.
>     Shuffling the shanks by weight will save you a little
> extra lead or
> sanding, but you can do a fine job just by gluing them up
> as usual, weighing
> them, creating a curve and adjusting the strikeweights. It
> might be better
> to take the simple approach first time.
>     Ed S.
>
> ----------
> >From: Avery Todd <atodd@UH.EDU>
> >To: College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org>
> >Subject: Re: Shank/Flange Weights
> >Date: Wed, Oct 9, 2002, 1:05 PM
> >
>
> > Jon & List,
> >
> >>It's not the actual weight of the s/f but he levered
> weight which the string.
> >>
> >>With center pin on a pivot off the scale (flange is
> straight up - no
> >>weight effect) place the hammer end on a riser on the scale where
> >>the hammer is glued.
> >>
> >>You will find the weight then to be in the range of 1.5g to 2 g
> >>
> >>Regards,
> >>
> >>Jon
> >
> > Jon & List,
> >
> > OK, the light bulb finally went off about the total
> weight not mattering.
> > The flange is out of the picture when it's screwed to the
> rail!! Duh!!!
> >
> > It's going to be like pulling teeth, but I'm determined
> to learn how to
> > do this! Sorry for the novice questions.
> >
> > Below is a sample of what I came up with by just
> arranging the s/f left
> > to right, light to heavy and also weighing the hammers.
> At the bottom are
> > also a few readings at the thinned shank area.
> >
> > To determine the best order for installing the shanks, do
> you go by the
> > shank strike weight or the strike weight? Light on #1
> graduating to
> > heavier until the thinned shank area then then the same
> thing there?
> >
> > What else do I need to do before gluing on the hammers to
> cut down as
> > much as possible on evening things out later?
> >
> > SS     HW     SW
> >
> > 1.5    8.8    10.3
> > 1.6    8.9    10.4
> > 1.6    9.3    10.9
> > 1.5    9.3    10.8
> > 1.5    9.2    10.7
> > 1.5    9.2    10.7
> > 1.6    8.8    10.4
> > 1.5    8.9    10.4
> > 1.6    8.9    10.5
> > 1.6    8.7    10.3
> > 1.5    9.3    10.8
> > 1.5    9.5    11
> > 1.5    9.4    10.9
> > 1.5    9.4    10.9
> > 1.6    9.4    11
> > 1.6    9.2    10.8
> > 1.6    9.4    11
> > 1.6    9.1    10.7
> > 1.7    9      10.7
> > 1.7    8.9    10.6
> > 1.6    9      10.6
> > 1.6    8.8    10.4
> > 1.7    8.6    10.3
> > 1.6    8.8    10.4
> > 1.7    8.7    10.4
> > 1.7    8.6    10.3
> > (tenor break)
> > 1.7    8.7    10.4
> >
> > ======================================
> > 2      4.9     6.9
> > 1.4    4.8     6.2 (1st thinned shank)
> > 1.5    5.3     6.8
> > 1.3    5.3     6.6
> > 1.3    5.4     6.7
> >
> > Any comments or suggestions welcome. Thanks.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Avery
> > _______________________________________________
> > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> _______________________________________________
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