Shank/Flange Weights

Jon Page jonpage@attbi.com
Wed, 09 Oct 2002 12:54:04 -0400


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At 08:40 AM 10/9/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Jon,
>
>So except for the thinned shanks, you don't pre-sort your new s/f
>at all before you install them onto the rail?

Weigh the Strike Weight of the shanks (same as weighing SW with the hammer 
on, but it is off). The range will be 1.5 to 2 or more grams.
Separate them into groups of .1g difference.

>Or do you get the shank SW and sort them that way, going from lighter on 
>the bass to heavier toward the treble?

Lighter (thinned shanks) in the treble.

>Or does it make a lot of difference with the measurements SS measurement 
>coming out to 1.5g to 2g?
>
>The bottom line is that I'm just trying to level things out as much as
>possible before I glue on the new hammers to try and avoid unnecessary
>work later.
>
>Avery


Avery,
Weigh a set of hammers before you hang them. You will not find a smooth 
curve when plotted on a graph. (see attachment)

If you are striving for a smooth SW there are two ways to go about it.
One way would be to weigh the hammers and calibrate their weight to a 
smooth curve by sanding thinner or adding lead.
Then starting with all the same weight shanks as you go, heaviest in the 
bass decreasing by .1g as you go up the scale.

The other way would be to weight the hammers and match their individual 
weights to the appropriate SW of the shank to come
out with a fairly smooth SW line when plotted on a graph.  For instance, if 
you'll notice on the attachment..  notes 19 and 20.
If a 1.6g SW shank goes on 19 and a 2g SW shank goes on 20 them your 
resultant SW's will be 11.8 &11.6 respectively.
This closed the gap between them without excessive hammer tapering on 19 or 
lead addition to 20.  Similar effects are made across the scale.

Remember, measure the weight of the shanks the same as if you were 
measuring the SW of a set of hung hammers...but without the hammer.

If you want to go a set further and complicate matters, use a micrometer on 
the knuckle height. Make sub-groups or your weight piles with
the shanks separated by knuckle heit. Then endeavor to group similar 
knuckle heights along with the appropriate weight match.  You may find
quite a few knuckles which require resetting because there are either too 
high or too low.  I've seen sets with as much as 1mm difference in height,
I try to maintain a .25mm (.010") tolerance window.

...hope this helps :-)

Jon
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