Low Frequency Voicing

[Tim Coates]

Hi Vince,

I use the 7 to 1 ratio when measuring the distance a hammer should be on the
shank.  The "1" is a line measured from the center of the hammer flange pin to
where the back side of the jack meets the knuckle.  Usually 18mm.  Multiple 18 by
7 and you have 126.  The center of the hammer is located 126mm from the center of
the hammer flange pin.  I have seen some 100 year old SS are at 126mm.  That is
ideal.  Can't be done on most pianos.  Now SS puts the hammer somewhere between
130 and 132.

There is virtually no measurable difference when checking up/down weight.  But
there is a definite difference in ease of playing.  Don't ask me why, I don't
know.  But I feel it.  It is similar to moving a person closer to you on a
teeter-totter.  You have created a better leverage.

I will move the hammerline in anywhere from 1-3mm.  Depends on the distance
between the fallboard and the back of the blacks, the sostenuto, damper system.
Even 1mm makes a difference.

I have one SSB in particular that measured perfectly using up/down weights and
Stanwood's spreadsheets.  I moved the hammerline in 2mm and the piano is now a joy
to play.  The concert pianist who plays this piano is very sensitive to difficult
actions and is now very pleased with the piano.

Tim Coates
Wapin Co., LLP

"Vincent E. Mrykalo" wrote:

> Hi Tim,
> How much are you talking here when you say the hammers are too far
> out on the shank?  Have you measured touch weight differences?
>
> >Hi Richard,
> >
> >I pay a certain amount of attention to hammer weight, but not as in-depth as a
> >total Stanwood design.  I pay close attention to leverage and location of the
> >hammer on the shank.  I find most factory SS hammers to be to far out on the
> >shank, which IMHO creates a leverage problem.
> >
>
> --
> Vince Mrykalo RPT MPT
> Senior Piano Technician
> Crane School of Music
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