Hateful little F DAMPER

[Isaac OLEG]

I would say that, that adding weight on a damper seems not nice to me,
and can well be perceived in the touch.

Straightening, aligning, bending, and taking care of the amount of
pressure on any string (push lightly on any string one by one and
watch/hear how the tone damps & how the head of the damper moves).

These jobs are not very easy but the good bending may work.

I usually have a small plank that I put on the stretcher to protect
it, and on there are straight lines to use as guides for bending. It
helps to leave the damper head flat on the stretcher to check the
rightness of the alignment with the wire.

There is indeed a slant in the wire too, on some pianos,  the heads
are not at 90° with the wire. That allow for half pedaling.

Regards.

Isaac OLEK


> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De la part de
> Otto Keyes
> Envoyé : mercredi 6 novembre 2002 21:43
> À : College and University Technicians
> Objet : Re: Hateful little F DAMPER
>
>
>
> Piano Technician
> University of Idaho
> 208-885-7918
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jorgensen, Michael L" <jorge1ml@cmich.edu>
> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 12:10 PM
> Subject: RE: Hateful little F DAMPER
>
>
> >     The damper guide hole is also almost directly under
> the right string
> which has made it especially challenging.  Vince suggested
> "moving the
> hole".  All other holes in the rail are nicely aligned, the
> problem is that
> F is very close to F# as a unison.  Probably half the usual
> space between
> them.   What is the best way to "move" that hole??
>
>
> At the risk of messing things up & having to start over
> (which risk you will
> take whatever course of action you choose here),  I would
> suggest a slight
> dog-leg in the wire above the guide rail.  This takes some
> creative hand
> work with 2 damper wire bending tools, but it can be done.
> Make a minor
> bend above the rail with the damper seated on the string,
> then lift it.
> Stabilize the lower bend with one tool & make a counter
> bend just above it
> to straighten the head, being careful to keep those bends
> perpendicular to
> the string -- not easy to do right next to the strut.  Just
> be cautious.
> You only need to move it a fraction to get it to clear.
>
> Note:  Now all you have to do is reseat the damper
> perfectly on the string
> to get rid of the zing you just put back in.   :)
>
> The other option would be to move the hole slightly by:
> (1) elongating
> guide rail hole with a rat-tail file, shimming the offending side, &
> rebushing; (2)  see note above.  :)
>
> Otto
>
>
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