Accu-just HPs in Steinway D :>)

[Delwin D Fandrich]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Thile" <scott.thile@murraystate.edu>
To: <caut@ptg.org>
Sent: May 30, 2002 1:09 PM
Subject: Accu-just HPs in Steinway D :(


> Hello folks,
>
> My summer rebuild project this year is the older of the two Steinway D's
we
> have in our main recital hall. I'm really glad to be rebuilding it, but
> unfortunately it's had some nasty things done to it that will make it a
> tough project, one of them being the retrofitting of accu-adjust (Baldwin
> style) hitch pins. This, of course, means that the holes have been drilled
> out larger to accept the little spring steel posts. They did a sloppy job
of
> it too. What a mess!

The only problem I see with this is that "a sloppy job of it" was done. I
consider the vertical hitch pin to be an excellent string termination
system -- in several ways better than the conventional system. Aside from
the obvious (giving one the ability to alter string bearing on the bridge)
it provides a pivot termination instead of a bending termination improving
the mobility of the string back-scale and giving a bit more freedom of
motion to the bridge/soundboard system. Are you sure your main objection
isn't simply that it doesn't look original? What do you see as the down side
to this conversion? Aside from the quality of work, of course, that you've
mentioned.


>
> A new plate is not an option, and yet, I would like to get it back
> to the original style HPs. Any ideas? Anyone done this successfully? I
> thought about silver solder, but I'm too worried about causing stress in
the
> plate from uneven heat (silver solder requires a bunch of heat). I've
> thought about epoxy, but I'm just not sure how that will hold up over the
> long run.

I doubt either method would be successful. Epoxy will definitely not hold
up. And I don't think I'd want to try either silver-soldering or brazing.


>
> Lately I've been thinking about either some sort of sleeve or
> metal dowel epoxied into the oversized holes, but these would be a bit of
a
> pain to drill out. What kind of material could I get in the right size
that
> would also have the same basic metallurgy as the plate? I can't think of
> anything. So far, epoxy seems like the best approach if it would hold up
> ok....

Be careful how much you drill out, especially up in the treble. Some of
those pins are pretty close together and you might not have much material
left over.


>
> If I can't get it back I can always leave the accu-adjust pins in there,
but
> who wants Steinwin?

Don't knock it till you've tried it.


>
> Actually, they also installed a M&H spider (tensioner).
> I think I can repair that mess fine, although it will be a bunch of
> woodwork. So I guess it's actually a Steinwin & Hamlin.

(If I understand your post correctly, this was done without replacing the
soundboard. How did they do that?)

Again, I can think of at least a couple of reasons why someone might want to
do this. First, the Model D belly rail is not particularly stiff and is
rather poorly supported through the upper region. Assuming whoever did the
job got one of the spiderweb arms up there it might well improve the sustain
capability of the piano through the killer octave region. Also, it is always
a good idea to stiffen the long straight side of a piano such as the Model
D. Again, assuming that the spiderweb arms are placed correctly it could
help improve sustain through the mid-tenor.


>
> Why do people do these things??

To improve the performance of a given piano. (Not being able to see the
piano I don't know if this goals was achieved, but the potential is
certainly there.) Why don't you try working with the piano and see what you
end up with. You might be surprised.

Del