Accu-just HPs in Steinway D :(

[Scott Thile]

Thanks to all who have responded on this so far. Very helpful....

Newton, Do you happen to remember the name (or anything I can use to search)
for the new low heat alloy you saw? That sounds perfect for this if it will
hold up ok. I'd like to experiment with it, at least.

Ken, thanks for the epoxy condemnation. That's what I was afraid of. I hate
epoxy and haven't used it in very many applications that have really tested
it's gap filling strength. I thought I had heard that there were newer
formulations (like an improved version of the old JB weld stuff) that would
work in this type of application. Maybe not though.

Yes, I know, replacing the HPs may not sound any different at all. And, If I
can't find a good solution, I'll likely just leave them alone and simply
install new termination bars. I was thinking the termination would be better
with standard HPs though. Newton, why do you think the accu-adjust pins
would have better termination? Another complication is I think the plate was
lowered so they had more room to play with the downbearing. Worse case
scenario is that I'll need to replace those plate dowels if I manage to get
the HPs replaced. That makes the bearing adjustments easier anyway. I think
the soundboard is fine. No cracks and plenty of bearing and crown from all
appearances. The bridges need to either be recapped or just resurfaced,
notched and repined. Haven't decided on that yet. The string angles from
bridge to HP are unsightly right now due to the thicker HPs. I'd hate to
throw a new cap into the works without straightening them out first.

BTW, I'd already been thinking of leaving the M&H tensioner in there as
several have suggested. I think that may actually be helping this particular
piano some. It was fire damaged at one point in it's history, although from
what I can tell the rim and belly rail are all very sound, and I intend to
install a nice new Baldoc fully fit pinblock, which should lock it all
together nicely. Still the tensioner is good insurance, and I've always kind
of liked the theory behind it.

I just hate not having things original on this instrument. At some point one
does need to punt though. We do have a very nice D built in the early '90s
in the same hall, but we reserve it for faculty and piano major recitals
only (it even has Ivory Keys. I guess it's one of the few odd years they
were using Klug ivory keytops, keys, and frames as a special order item).
Anyway, I'd really like this older D I'm rebuilding (early 1960s CD-134) to
rival it's younger mate when I'm done. Not likely given everything that's
happened to it, and the new one (CD-369 BTW) really is a sweetie too. It
keeps my attitude in line toward the end of the semester recital crunch when
I'm normally starting to loose it..... Anyway, I'm really hoping to get this
old dog turned around, in part just to take some of the pressure off the
newer one.

Another interesting project on this rebuild is I'll be installing all new
damper heads and wires along with the felts. I haven't done that in years.
Lots of wire bending as I remember, but I think I had built a jig to that
well, if I can find it! Kept the individual tweaking down to a minimum as I
remember it....

Thanks again to all,
Scott

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-caut@ptg.org [mailto:owner-caut@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Newton
Hunt
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 3:49 PM
To: caut@ptg.org
Subject: Re: Accu-just HPs in Steinway D :(


> I would like to get it back
> to the original style HPs.

Why?  The pins are a better termination than the old aliquot system.

But if you must, there is a low melt alloy available (TV infomercial) that
should work just fine.  It does not get hot enough to effect the cast iron.
Melt it in, file, and drill for new pins.  I would suggest plugging a few
holes
in other metals to determine what drill bit to use and if tapping over the
pins
will cause loosening in the alloy.

But why?

> What kind of material could I get in the right size that
> would also have the same basic metallurgy as the plate?

If you want to go that way, the brass will work just fine.  If the drilling
job
is sloppy then even several sizes of brass may not work too well.  Oval
holes
and such.

> So I guess it's actually a Steinwin & Hamlin.

That you might just leave in place, if it is well set up.  (Yeah right)
S&S's
belly rail and sides have been known to move a little so if it is functional
leave it alone.

> Why do people do these things??

Arrogance.

> especially from someone who has successfully
> dealt with this, would be greatly appreciated.

Well, I have no experience but I have lots and lots of opinions. Just ask
me. :)

I wish you luck on this one.  Quite a mess indeed but I would look at it in
terms of "how long as this lasted, do these mods great any real problems
(except
in you own mind) and will the piano be improved or more compromised in
trying to
make it "original", and will the expected improvements merit the time and
who
else will know the difference.

If there are stability, tone or serviceability problems then indeed deal
with
them but if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Think about this carefully and plan out an approach and think about whether
this
is a good time investment for you and the school and the rest of the piano.

		Newton