Hi Avery, I like what Lloyd recommended, and suggest you look for the parts combination that gives you the most agreeable touchweight measurements. i.e.: 50g Down, 20 - 25g Up, = 12.5 - 15g Friction Before testing new parts: Choose a note in the low tenor for your sample. Make sure all sources of excess friction are dealt with, (do we have verdigris here?) and regulation to the point of escapement is correct. Measure the note with existing parts in place. If the existing note is darn close to normal (lighter hammer from repeated filing/lower friction from wear) then you may presume the action is pretty routine, and we'd have to go way out of our way to mess it up :>). But just to be sure, lift the key and take note of how much lead is present; two 1/2" leads and a trim lead would be pretty common here. If the leading is original, and modest, you're pretty much on your way, as at least one combination in the parts kit should give you the results you're after. The next "weighty" choice will be hammers. For your test, you may either "pull" the original hammer (if you're especially in love with the original TW measurements) and use it, or a new spare similar to what you intend for this instrument. My recommend is one of the "lites" from Renner or Abel. However, with the "short-bore" common to this model (M), you may find the moulding kind of thin at bore-length. Should you go this route, hang some samples on your new action, once they are bored and tails cut to length. Touchweight measurements taken now may affect how much coving and tapering you do decide upon. (weighing-off is like key-leveling,.. and for that matter; putting; enjoyable always, but most satisfying the least attempts required). BTW, if this is not exactly the answer you were looking for Avery, send me a note and I will try confuse the issue to a more finite degree! :>) best regards, Mark Cramer, Brandon University -----Original Message----- From: owner-caut@ptg.org [mailto:owner-caut@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Avery Todd Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 9:04 AM To: caut@ptg.org Subject: Choosing Parts List, Anyone have experience choosing parts from the Renner Parts Kit for an older Steinway 'M' (1925). Below is from Lloyd: >We recommend restoring all quality pianos, particularly of this >vintage, to their original design, using original dimension parts. >In the case of Steinway, this cannot be determined by the serial >number due to the way those pianos were designed at crafted at >that time. This is why we designed the Sample Parts Kit. Simply >test the different shanks & flanges and wippens in the piano to >determine the best fit. For example, your piano will have angled >capstans, so one might assume the angled heel wippen to be the >best choice. The capstan angles varied considerably at that time, >and it's possible the straight heel will actually work better. >You have three different shanks & flanges for Steinway and two >basic wippen designs in your Kit. The 17.0mm shank was never used >in the original Steinway pianos so you can rule that one out. >Test all the others in the piano to determine the best combination. I have the kit but I need some advice on what, specifically, I should be looking for, etc. to determine that "best fit". The piano (or action) isn't in the shop yet but will be soon. Any advice appreciated. An old dog trying to learn new tricks. Avery University of Houston
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC