Hi Mark! Ted here; you do have to remove the tuning pin on a harpsichord to replace a string, and it also helps to lift the jacks out temporarily. Just for the affected string of course. If you stretch out the coil from the broken string and measure it you will have a pretty good idea of the length to allow for the new string's coil. To replace the string, put the loop on the hitchpin and turn the pin in the fingers.using the techniques so well described by Ed and Greg. Willard Martin sells strings ready looped like guitar strings for his harpsichords, as does the Instrument Workshop, but they are made of the softened wire by Malcom Rose and the breakage rate is very high. It may well produce a fuller sound, but I have just about given up on it, and would like to restring our two Martins with high tensile wire, which would mean less conveniently having to loop the wire myself. I can do this on our bass string foot looper by substituting a small diameter hook. The Instrument Workshop sells a small hand looper which works very well too, though we do not have one. Their address is, or was: The Instrument Workshop 7793 Highway 66 Ashland Oregon, U.S.A. 97520-9772 503 488 4671 Fax 503 488 5846 IWCembalo@aol.com I am intrigued by the stainless steel wire being advertized in the PTJ and wonder if it comes in harpsichord diameters, and if anyone has had any experience with it yet. If successful this would be a big breakthrough. The Chinook Keyboard Centre in Calgary recently acquired a new harpsichord from Holland by a maker named Klop. It is splendidly made and Bill Garlick assured me that it is strung with high tensile wire. Its tone is great, so factors other than the wire may be more important. It also has square tuning pins, but is otherwise very much a historic type, with beautifully made wood jacks (pear with holly tongues). All the best, Ted Sambell -----Original Message----- From: Mark Cramer [mailto:cramer@BrandonU.CA] Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 6:23 PM To: caut@ptg.org Subject: RE: harpsichord: broken string Thanks Ed, Ed and Greg for helpful information. Ed Sutton; "where do you find the harpsichord book mentioned?" Also, would love to hear how your life is going, what the weather there is like etc., Certainly enjoyed our time with you last Feb. Greg, do please send info on the other end of the string. I'm presuming then that you do the tuning pin first, then the hitch. Also that you do not remove the tuning pin to replace a broken string? Am learning much more about harpsichords than I ever wished to. :>) thanks, Mark -----Original Message----- From: owner-caut@ptg.org [mailto:owner-caut@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Greg Granoff RPT Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 5:00 PM To: caut@ptg.org Subject: Re: harpsichord: broken string Mark Cramer wrote: > Can someone provide me with an "idiot's guide" to installing string on a > harpsishord? Yes, the tuning pins w/o holes. > > much thanks, > Mark Cramer, > Brandon University Mark, The idea is to make a small downward flag of wire with the end of the string and wrap the windings around that, thus effectively trapping the string to prevent slipping. Sounds lame, but it works very well. After hooking the string on the hitch pin, hold it gently taught standing at the front of the instrument and cut off enough extra past the pin hole to give you several windings around the pin--perhaps seven or eight for the treble, and fewer in the bass. It is important to prevent overlap of the bottom winding by the string as it rises up to meet the level of the nut, as the stress this causes is often a source of breakage; hence, fewer windings where the tuning pin and nut are closer together. >From there, one holds (depending on whether left or right handed) the string in one hand and tuning pin in the other, and bringing the string along side the pin with the string end pointing toward the threads, (or where they would be if there aren't any) leaving about a 1/4 inch of string as a downward pointing flag, and firmly holding the flag in place on the side of the pin, turn the pin (making a 90 degree angle in the string about where a string hole would normally be) and spin the pin catching the flag under the first winding, then keeping the string taught, keep spinning the pin catching the flag under successive windings until you are at the tuning pin hole. Then, continuing to hold the string taught, turn the pin back to vertical position and shove the end in the hole. Tap it down to same height as its neighbors, and the job is done except for positioning over the nut and bridge by the appropriate jack(s). With a little practice, this can be done very fast while keeping those windings nice and tight against each other and the flag. Obviously, continuous tension on the string and efficient movements are the order of the day. I know it sounds complicated, but it is MUCH easier shown than described. I tend to hold the pin with the tuning lever facets to my left, and wind the top of the pin over toward me counter clockwise, but that's just personal preference. Do you need info on making the 'pigtail' for the hitchpin end? Good luck! Greg Granoff
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