Juice and the Steinway hammers

[Fred Sturm]

As long as people are discussing hardening agents and dilutions, I'd
like to place a query I think I made a good while ago: what lacquer?
Could be nitrocellulose or acrylic (those are the two I'm aware of - are
there others?), the first used mostly for furniture (wood), latter for
autos (metal). Nitro gets pretty brittle when completely cured (which
takes a while), while acrylic retains some flexibility. I've heard from
various people that they prefer one or the other, from others that there
is no difference. Wonder if I might elicit additional comments in that
regard.
	On a similar note, I wonder if there is any essential difference
between acrylic lacquer and "keytop" solution, other than the
vehicle/solvent ("keytop" is typically pure acrylic in pure acetone,
while acrylic lacquer thinner has other solvents designed to ritard
drying among other effects. And I don't know what other solids might be
involved). I wonder if adding lacquer thinner to acetone, or
substituting lacquer thinner for acetone altogether, in making "keytop,"
would change the results. Slower drying/curing might affect where how
much solid ended up, and possibly its final characteristics. Guess I
ought to experiment, huh? But maybe somebody else has already.
	My experience with "keytop" has been mostly pretty favorable, but maybe
because I apply to shoulders and don't let it soak into the crown. I'm
not sure I am able to hear a difference between one hardening agent and
another, unless it is applied directly to the crown. (There, the
difference between lacquer, sanding sealer, and "keytop" is fairly
pronounced).
	
	On another, related topic, I like to use the hypo-oiler to apply hammer
dope. A hint for keeping the stuff from evaporating between uses: insert
a short piece of harpsichord wire (somewhere in the .010 to .015" range)
in the needle when not in use. I found a diameter that fit pretty
precisely. Put a tiny kink at the end so it won't fall in, then put the
plastic cover over it (the one that comes with the bottle) and
evaporation is close to eliminated. If you don't have access to
harpsichord wire, a straight pin or needle can substitute.
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico

A440A@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Horace writes:
> <<The newer instruments will need hardening.  Simple.  The amount is going to
> vary with each situation.  In some cases, 4:1 (lacquer thinner:lacquer) is
> the right thing to use.  In others, perhaps thinner combinations, or use of
> lacquer sanding sealer or shellac is appropriate or more reasonable. >>
> 
> Greetings,
>     I think we could profitably discuss this dilution thing.   I have used
> various strengths with various results, but would hope that a communal-cyber
> reach for consensus could give us all a broader perspective. (OK, that is a
> verbose way of saying, "let's talk about the solution", but blame it on a
> long day and a little Scotch).