Greetings Guy, I have a theory that the deep needle tracks help form a channel for the acetone and key top material, when I mention deep, I mean going in almost to the molding, the needles go in fairly easily when wet. They are also easy to with draw. An absolute give away that key top material has been used, is that the needles tend to get stuck, and with draw with a 'pop'. Another little wrinkle, DON'T play the notes untill the hammer is completely dry, you don't need to compress the felt and key top when wet. Patience is the key on this approach. REgards Roger At 05:43 PM 04/12/98 -0700, you wrote: >At 04:33 PM 12/4/98 -0600, you wrote: >>Hi Jeff, >> Wet needling is the way to go. >>Now for my flame suit or straight jacket. >>Regards roger >> >> >Roger, > Can't wait to try it on a couple of over-pounded L's and R's from a few >years ago. Seems like the ones that get moderate play don't get near as >bad. On the other hand, we don't have any moisture in the air to help the >hardening process. (can't hardly quick-set CA glue, either!) Matter of >fact, the dryness makes for problems if you use the "pliers" method >mentioned on another post. I've found that squeeze-a-fied hammers sound ok >for awhile, but then become very difficult to file, or even lightly dress, >and picky little voicing changes are almost impossible. > I've never done a "flush" as described, but I've had good luck on the >BPO's with just straight acetone right on the strike till it soaks down to >just about the tip of the moulding. >Good luck with whatever you do, Jeff. > >Guy >"When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty." > Roger Jolly Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre Saskatoon and Regina Saskatchewan, Canada. 306-665-0213 Fax 652-0505
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